Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I slept rather late after my yesterday's fatigues, and did not leave
Scarborough till two o'clock. The road to Whitby is very hilly, and the
aspect of the country singular. As far as the eye can reach, neither
tree, house, wall, nor hedge;--nothing but an endless sea of wavy hills,
often of a strange regularity of form, like heaps of rubbish shot down,
thickly overgrown with heather, which at a near view presents the most
beautiful shades of purple and red, but at a distance sheds one uniform
dingy brown over the whole landscape, promising a rich harvest to
grouse-shooters. Nothing breaks the uniformity but a number of white
spots moving slowly here and there--the down sheep, with their black
faces and fine wool. About three miles from Whitby, as you descend from
the hilly country, the scene gradually changes, and near the town
becomes very romantic. Meanwhile English cleanliness and elegance
sensibly diminish. Whitby is exactly like an old German town; without
'trottoirs,' equally dirty, and with as narrow streets.
Probably few strangers of any 'apparence' visit this miserable place; or
whether they took me for somebody else I know not,--but so it was, that
they besieged me like some strange animal, and did not let me depart
without an escort of at least a hundred people, who crowded round me,
very good-naturedly indeed, but rather too pressingly, and examined me
from head to foot. I could not help thinking of a droll anecdote the
Duke of Leeds told me. This nobleman was very affable with his tenants
and people; one of them came up to him one day when he was riding, and
told him he had a great favour to beg of him. The Duke asked him what it
was. The man replied, after some hesitation, that he had a little boy
who plagued him day and night to let him see the Duke, and that as His
Grace was now close to his cottage, he would perhaps do him the great
favour to let his son look at him. The Duke readily consented, and rode
laughing to the cottage, where the delighted father ran in and fetched
his child. The boy stood amazed, looking at the middle-aged gentleman of
not very commanding exterior before him, of whose greatness and power he
had heard so much; gazed at him a long time; then touched him; and
suddenly asked, "Can you swim?" "No, my good boy," said the Duke. "Can
you fly?" "No, I can't fly neither." "Then I like father's drake better,
for he can do both."
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