Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I had written a note to Lord Mulgrave, the proprietor of a great
alum-work, and of a beautiful house and park on the sea-shore, begging
permission to see them. He sent me a very polite answer, and a groom on
horseback to conduct me. This aggravated the yesterday's misery; and the
chief magistrate of the little town now though fit to becompliment me by
the mission of two of his colleagues, who were also secretaries of the
Museum, which they proposed to show me. As it contains many very curious
fossils found in this neighbourhood, I accepted their offer. Half the
town was collected again, and followed us, with an 'arrière garde' of a
very noisy 'jeunesse.' In the Museum I found a number of the members
assembled, and a blooming company of ladies, from whose attractive faces
I was continually forced to turn away my eyes to look at a crocodile or
a petrified fish. The two secretaries had divided the duties between
them:--one did the honours of the fish and amphibia; the other of the
quadrupeds, birds, and minerals: and both were so zealous that I should
see everything in their respective departments, while some dilettanti
were no less eager to show me other things, that I had need of the
hundred eyes of Argus to take in all. The thing which interested me the
most was an Esquimaux canoe with the fishing apparatus complete,
presented by Captain Parry. It is made entirely of whalebone and
seal-skins, and so light that one can scarcely conceive how it can
encounter the sea. It is tolerably long; but in the centre, at its
greatest breadth, scarcely a foot across; the whole is enclosed like a
box, with the exception of a round hole in the middle, in which the
Esquimaux sits and balances his little bark with a double oar. The
petrifactions of all kinds, as well of existing as of antediluvian
animals and plants, are extremely numerous and fine, and the large
crocodile, almost perfect, is certainly 'unique' in its kind. The
gentlemen insisted on accompanying me back to my inn, whither we were
attended by the usual 'cortège.' As I drove off, a dreadful hurrah
resounded, and several of the children of both sexes did not quit me
till they found it impossible to keep pace with the horses.
I now drove slowly along the beach, conducted by Lord Mulgrave's
servant. I alighted to walk, and amused myself with picking up little
stones of the most brilliant colours which covered the beach. In an hour
we reached the alum-work, which lies in the most romantic situation,
between the abrupt cliffs overhanging the sea. I examined it all very
minutely, as you will see by the accompanying letter to the A---- D----.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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