Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
fast acquiring a claim to antiquity, give the fancy an agreeable and
spacious field to expatiate in. Here are perhaps the oldest yews in
England. One, which is thought to be a thousand years old, is thirty
feet in circumference in the thickest part of its stem. Among the
carvings in the house are those of two old knights taken from the abbey,
with the inscription, probably modern, 'Sic transit gloria mundi.' The
decay of Fountain's Abbey, too, is to be attributed to the suppression
of monasteries under Henry the Eighth.
Leaving the abbey, in half an hour you reach a beautiful and finely kept
pleasure-ground, which is rendered peculiarly delightful by its
diversity of hill and vale, noble trees, and well-placed clumps; though
rather encumbered with a multitude of old-fashioned summer-houses,
temples, and worthless leaden statues. In one of these temples,
dedicated to the Gods of antiquity, stands a bust of--Nero! But these
slight defects might easily be removed, while such a combination of
natural beauty can rarely be met with. At the end of the deer-park
stands the house of the proprietress, an elderly single lady of large
fortune. I met her in the garden, and was invited by her to luncheon,
which I gladly accepted, as my long walk had made me very hungry.
To return to the ruin.--Giving way to my critical vein, I must add one
thing,--which is, that while too little care is bestowed upon Whitby,
too much is bestowed upon this. Not a loose stone lies on the ground,
which is mowed as smooth as a carpet. The old cloister garden is laid
out in a too modern taste; and were this poetic structure mine, I would
immediately set out about creating a little more artificial wildness
about it; for the whole ought to partake of that air of half-decayed
grandeur which has the greatest power over the imagination.
After my return to Ripon I visited the church there--another beautiful
remnant of antiquity, with a choir full of the richest carvings. There
is a subterranean arched room--a sort of catacomb, adorned with skulls
and bones,--in which I busied myself a long while with my favourite
craniological researches. Among these human ruins was a skull so
strikingly like my own, that it even struck the clerk. What may the old
boy have been?--perhaps myself in another garment? Nobody could give me
any account of this house of bone. There was the genuine French skull of
an emigrant priest, which the clerk himself had smuggled in. He looked
so polite and so talkative, that I fancied he would have said,
'Monsieur, j'ai l'honneur de vous présenter mes respects; vous êtes trop
poli de venir nous rendre visite. Nous avons si rarement l'occasion de
causer ici!' It was a well bred skull--that you saw at the first glance;
my portrait, on the other hand, looked very thoughtful and silent. It
would be odd enough if one thus stood over one's own old bones.
_Harrowgate, Sept. 28th._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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