Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
You reproach me with liking better to write than to speak upon certain
subjects. You are right on the whole. But this affair,--and indeed all
sorts of petitioning,--is so contrary to my nature, that I speak
awkwardly and ill, and do better if I write. Besides, failure is not so
disagreeable.--But back to my journey.
The magnificent seats in England are really almost countless. One must
confine oneself to the most remarkable. Ten miles from Harrowgate I
found Harewood Park, a delightful residence;--fine natural wood, with
glens, rocks, a copious mountain stream, the ruin of an old castle on a
hill,--all situated in the richest country, and with distant views of
the Cumberland mountains.
The scene was enlivened in a striking manner. Just as I drove past the
house, I saw the possessor, Lord Harewood, with his pack of a hundred
hounds, his red-coated huntsmen, and a number of high-mettled horses
coming down a hill, on their return from a fox-hunt. I could not avoid
going up to him to explain the cause of my being here. I found a tall
handsome man, of remarkably winning air, in appearance and manner young
and active, in years (which one must be assured of to believe it,)
sixty-five. He received me with singular courtesy, said he had had the
pleasure of seeing me several times in London, ('je n'en savais pas un
mot,') and begged me to allow him to show me his park. I entreated him
not to give himself the trouble, after the toils of the chase (in which
men generally ride five or six German miles full gallop, and leap fifty
or sixty hedges and ditches:) but all my entreaties were vain; and this
fine old man accompanied me, up hill and down dale, over the whole of
his princely domain. What interested me most, as being new to me, was
the kennel. Here I saw a hundred and fifty dogs in two perfectly clean
rooms, each containing a large bed for seventy-five dogs, and each
having its own enclosure in front. There was not the slightest
offensive smell, nor the least dirt. In each yard was a tub with running
water, and a man armed with a broom, whose whole business it is to keep
the ground continually washed, for which purpose he can let the water
flow over it at pleasure. The dogs are accustomed to perfect obedience,
and keep their bed and room very clean. It is a great art to feed them
properly; for to sustain their great exertions, they must be kept very
lean, and yet their flesh ought to be as firm as iron. This was
perfectly accomplished here; and there could not be a more beautiful
sight than these slender, obedient, and happy-looking animals, half of
whom were just returned from the chase, and yet seemed quite unwearied.
They all lay however on their huge common bed, and looked at us
affectionately, wagging their tails; while the other half sprang eagerly
and wildly forward, into their court. The stables too, built in a
quadrangle at a little distance from the house, were very fine, and
contained about thirty noble horses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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