Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
There was a concert, and then a ball, at which the lovely German waltzer
outshone all her rivals,--and with the most unpretending air, as if she
did not perceive one of her conquests. Perhaps there never was a woman
who had the art of appearing more innocent and childlike; and certainly
this captivating sort of coquetry is the greatest charm, though not,
perhaps, the greatest merit, of women.
_May 8th._
For a week past two or three concerts have resounded in my ears every
evening, or, as they here more properly say, every night. They are all
on a sudden become a perfect rage, from the highest and most exclusive
down to the herd of 'nobodies.' Mesdames Pasta, Caradori, Sontag,
Brambilla, Messrs. Zuchelli, Pellegrini, and Curioni, sing for ever and
ever the same airs and duets; which, however, people seem never tired of
hearing. They often sing--doubtless tired themselves of the eternal
monotony--very negligently, but that makes no difference whatever. The
ears that hear them are seldom very musically organized, and are only
awakened by 'fashion;' and those who are in the centre of the crowd
certainly can often hardly distinguish whether the Bassist or the Prima
Donna is singing, but must fall into extacies like the rest,
notwithstanding. For the performers, this 'furore' is profitable enough.
Sontag, for instance, in every party in which she is heard at all,
receives forty pounds, sometimes a hundred; and occasionally she attends
two or three in an evening. Pasta, whose singing is, to my taste,
sweeter, grander, more tragic, rivals her; the others, though their
merit is considerable, are in a subordinate rank.
Besides these, Moschelles, Pixis, the two Bohrers, 'enfin' a herd of
virtuosi, are here, all flocking to English gold, like moths around a
candle. Not that they burn themselves; on the contrary, the women, at
least, kindle fresh flames, right and left, which are sometimes even
more profitable than their art.
The concerts at Prince Leopold's are generally the most agreeable, and
the insufferable squeezing is somewhat avoided in his large rooms. This
Prince is less popular than he deserves; for the English can't forgive
him for being a foreigner.
_May 9th._
Riding with M----, we accidentally came through a charming country to
Strawberry Hill,--the house built by Horace Walpole, which he mentions
so often in his letters, and which has been wholly unaltered and little
inhabited since his death. It is the first attempt at modern Gothic in
England--quite in the 'clinquant' taste of that time; the stone-work
imitated in wood, and a great deal more that glitters without being
gold. There are, however, many real treasures of art and curiosities.
Among them is a magnificent prayer-book set with jewels, filled with
drawings by Raphael and his pupils; Cardinal Wolsey's hat; a very
expressive portrait of Madame du Deffant, Walpole's blind and witty
friend; and a picture of the celebrated Lady Mary Wortley Montague, in a
Turkish dress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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