Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I have not been so happy and amused for a long time as here. In the
morning I make excursions in the beautiful country, or drive in lady
D----'s little one horse phæton about the fields and park, without road
or path; and in the evening I, like the rest, take only just so much
part in the conversation as I like. Yesterday after dinner we all sat
(nine persons) at least a couple of hours together in the library,
reading,--each, of course I mean, in his own book,--without one single
word being spoken. At which peripatetic silence we at last, all by
common consent, laughed. We thought of the Englishman at Paris, who
maintained 'que parler c'étoit gâter la conversation.' After visiting
the Lancasterian school I mentioned,--where one person teaches sixty
girls, some of whom come from the remotest parts of Lord D----'s
estate, many miles, daily--I rode to Rochester to see the fine ruin of
the old castle. What has not been destroyed by violence stands like a
rock, from the time of William the Conqueror. The remains of the
eating-hall, with its colossal pillars united by richly ornamented Saxon
arches, are singularly fine. The stone ornaments were all carved in
Normandy, and sent hither by water. I mounted the highest point of the
ruin, whence I had a noble view of the union of the Thames and the
Medway, the towns of Rochester and Chatham, with the dockyards of the
latter, and a richly cultivated country.
At dinner our company received an addition,--Mr and Mrs P----, Mr M----,
and a nephew of Lord D----'s. Mrs P---- told a good anecdote of Kemble
the actor. On a professional tour in the provinces, he acted in a piece
in which a camel is introduced. He told the 'décorateur' that, as he had
just seen, there was a camel actually in the town, and that he had
better therefore go and look at it, that he might make his artificial
one as like it as possible. The man seemed extremely annoyed, and
replied, he was sorry gentlemen in London thought people in the country
were so ignorant; for his part, he flattered himself that, without going
to look at any thing, he should produce a more natural camel this
evening than any that was walking about the streets.
The following day we rode out, and this time in company with the ladies,
after which we went on the water in Lord D----'s elegant yacht. I was
to drive the party down to the Thames, four-in-hand, in which I have had
so little practice of late years, that at a crossway the leaders, in
spite of my efforts, ran their heads against a stage-coach driving
across us:--this occasioned a scream in both the carriages, which
greatly incensed old Child, who looks upon me as his pupil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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