Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I left London at two o'clock in the morning, very ill and out of
spirits; in harmony with the weather, which was perfectly 'à
l'Anglaise.' It blew a hurricane, and rained water-spouts. About eight
o'clock, however, the sky cleared. I had been lulled into a gentle
slumber by the rapid and easy roll of the carriage; all nature shone
with an emerald brightness, and a delicious fragrance poured in at the
open windows from every field and flower; and your care-worn, melancholy
friend was again, in a few moments, the light-hearted child rejoicing in
the beautiful world, and in its mighty and merciful Creator. Travelling
in England is, indeed, most delightful. Could I but witness your
pleasure in it! Could I but feel my own doubled by your participation!
It rained occasionally through the day, but I was little incommoded by
this in a close carriage, and found the air mild and balmy. The former
part of the country through which our road lay, teemed with all the
luxuriant vegetation of the most beautiful park; the next presented
boundless corn fields without hedges, which is a rarity in England; and
the last nearly resembled the rich plains of Lombardy. I passed many
large parks, which, however, weather being uncertain, and time limited,
I left unvisited. It is not easy, after my long park and garden chase
through half England, to find any thing new of this kind. In Cirencester
I visited a beautiful Gothic church of great antiquity, with windows of
coloured glass in pretty good preservation, and curious grotesque
carvings. It is a grievous pity that the Gothic churches in England,
without exception, are defaced by tasteless modern grave-stones and
monuments.
Late in the evening I reached Cheltenham, an extremely pretty
watering-place, of an elegance nowhere to be found on the continent.
Even the splendid gas-lights and the new villa-looking houses, each
surrounded by its little flower-garden, put the mind into a cheerful and
agreeable tone. I arrived, too, just in the hour when the contest
between the light of day and the artificial illumination produces a
peculiar and, to me, pleasing effect. As I entered the inn, which, I
might almost call magnificent, and ascended the snow-white stone
staircase, ornamented with a gilt bronze railing, and trod on fresh and
brilliant carpets, lighted by two servants to my room, I gave myself up,
'con amore,' to the feeling of 'comfort' which can be found in
perfection nowhere but in England. In this point of view, it is a
country completely made for a misanthrope like myself;--since all that
is unconnected with social life, all that a man can procure _with
money_, is excellent and perfect in its kind; and he may enjoy it
isolated, without any other human being troubling himself about him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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