Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
But that is not the end of the story. Manwaring went home and
complained to the Janizary who acted as guardian to his party. The
latter took a stick, found the Turk, who was of high enough position to
go about in cloth of gold and crimson velvet, and thrashed him till he
could not stand.
This was a form of protection open to all. The payment was low; the
Janizary's standard of honour and honesty very high, their power
practically unlimited. Moryson was one of a band of a hundred, who
accidentally set fire to the grass while cooking their supper. Out came
a Janizary from the local governor and compelled them to use their
clothes to quench the flames; which done, he drove them all, priests
and armed men included, before him to the governor, with no weapon but
a stick, and whoever lagged behind he cried, "Wohowe Rooe," and hit him.
But with regard to insults, it must be remembered that certain
characteristics of the Frank the Turks never ceased to despise. They
wished their enemies "no more rest than a Christian's hat." Four things
especially puzzled them, why (1) the latter walked about when he might
sit down, (2) wore his hair long when he might get it cut short, (3)
shaved instead of growing a beard, refusing sometimes to do business
with beardless Christians, believing such to be under age, (4) bought
material for clothes and then cut bits out; themselves wearing their
garments plain.
Barring the results of misunderstanding and contempt, there was plenty
of interest in life in Constantinople. The Greeks, at any rate, whom
Della Valle visited, were not grievously oppressed, considering that
while among the Turks to be reputed rich was more dangerous than any
crime; he found the ladies at a wedding dressed in stuff that cost
twelve zecchini a "picco" (at least £20 a yard) and, as their custom
was, they frequently retired to change their dresses, of which they
brought eight or ten. There were the market places to see, which were
used as a promenade, especially by the ladies, who in this respect
had a decidedly better opportunity to make acquaintances than was
generally supposed; their veils did not prevent them making themselves
recognised, and the press of people was sufficiently great to allow of
an "unintentional" dig in the ribs as a means of introduction to an
attractive foreigner. Tommasetto, Della Valle's servant, was even more
favoured because he conformed to Turkish standards by growing a beard,
and accordingly, in passing the streets, the ladies frequently touched
his cheeks, saying always the same word, which he found meant "handsome
man!" If, in the market or elsewhere, a Christian wanted to buy food,
there was no such thing for him as a fixed price or a bargain; he gave
the Turk money and the Turk gave what he chose to give. Every Friday
was a slave market, where the tourist might see his countrywomen for
sale; a virgin would fetch about £25, and an average widow £9, as money
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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