Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
the families who had been long resident there, the other for strangers:
because although the repulsion felt for the Jews was greater at this
time than at present, the interest in them was likewise greater, and
any information concerning their customs was regarded by the tourist
as matter for his readers—a surprising number of these tourists give
eye-witness accounts of circumcisions of Jewish babies.
To return to Aleppo; it was equally remarkable for its trade. Dealings
to the extent of 40,000 to 100,000 crowns were ordinary, and this
implied frequency of caravans to take the pilgrim on to Damascus. On
the way he would pass the district in which Job was supposed to have
lived, which may well have been so, says Moryson, for no spot possessed
such conveniences for getting robbed, even of 100,000 head of cattle,
nor any better suited to develop patience.
It was here the pilgrim became acquainted with the Arabs. How far the
latter were independent of the Turks was left an unsettled question,
but it is fairly certain that on many, perhaps most, of the occasions
when a European traveller of the time relates an encounter with the
Arabs, the latter were not the robbers he thought them but keepers of
the roads demanding not more than treble what they were entitled to.
But it is equally clear that hostilities were perpetual. In 1601 a
caravan guide told an Englishman at one defile that he had never passed
by there without seeing bodies of murdered men; and from Damascus to
Jacob's bridge—so called because just by was the spot where Jacob
wrestled with the Angel—the caravan travelled by night for fear of
the Arabs and no talking was allowed without the captain's special
permission. But there was much to divert the attention of the faithful
from their trials. At Damascus was Ananias' house, and soon after
starting an ill-informed tourist would be surprised to see all his
fellow travellers fall on their knees for prayers: it would be the
spot where the conversion of St. Paul took place. Before reaching
the Sea of Galilee they came upon a field with a little well in it,
at which all dismounted for worship as well as for a drink; there had
Joseph been hidden by his brethren. Between Cana and Mt. Tabor was a
little chapel to call at, built on the spot where Christ had multiplied
the loaves and fishes, and after this the road turned westwards to
Nazareth and the church on the site where the Virgin Mary's house
had stood before it had been spirited away to Loreto; two porphyry
columns were standing on the places occupied respectively by the
Archangel and by the Virgin at the moment of the Annunciation. For
those who were not Roman Catholics there was the actual house there
to be identified on its original site, so far as it had been left
intact by previous pilgrims; Lithgow, the only Western Christian in
the caravan he travelled with, asserts that his companies carried away
above five thousand pounds' weight of the house in remembrance. Then
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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