Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
At Gaza the caravan would split. The tourist would accompany those
who were for Damascus, whose way lay through Rama, where, as already
mentioned, all pilgrim ways met. Then to Jerusalem. At the gate the
pilgrim's weapons were taken from him and his name registered in a
book, to assure that his tribute should not be overlooked. Then the
resident representative of his sect took charge of him; if he was
a Frank he went to the Roman Catholic monastery of San Salvatore,
whether Protestant or not. There was one Calvinist at this time who
preferred to deal direct with the Turks rather than endanger his soul;
but this meant money to the monks and he found himself in prison, from
which he was only released by influence. The fact was that none of
the Protestant rulers contributed to the upkeep of any foundation at
Jerusalem and all Western Europeans were consequently classed together
as in days gone by. At the monastery he would be fairly certain to make
the acquaintance of Giovanni Battista, the monastery guide, for by
1612 he had filled that post for twenty-five years; and he it was from
whom pilgrims derived most of their information during their stay—in
Italian; if their knowledge of Italian was hazy, it probably added one
or two marvels to those he meant to tell them. And, indeed, this may be
said of most of these tourists on most of their journeys; much of the
information they retail, in their own books and in this, they acquired
by word of mouth in a language they only half understood.
Of Jerusalem as a town they say that the walls were the best part of
the building; that there were three Christians living there to every
Turk; that the Christians dwelled there for devotion and the Turks for
the income derived from the Christians, and that otherwise it would
have been wholly deserted. Partially deserted it actually was, since
for the scarcity of human beings in its streets it is compared to
Padua, the emptiest city in Europe, by one Englishman. All the trades
driven there were elementary ones, shoemakers, cooks, smiths, tailors;
and Moryson, on being seen walking about with gloves and a shirt, was
taken for a prince in spite of his being poorly dressed otherwise;
although that did not prevent the natives egging on their children to
leap on to his back from upper stories and snatch things from him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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