Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
In France, for some reason, Normandy seems to have made foreigners
more comfortable than elsewhere, yet Picardy, so little distant, was
just the opposite. Picardy, however, at this time was stamped with the
character of border-country more disastrously than any other district
of France. Nothing remained, indeed, to the country as a whole, as
regards cooking, but a reputation for entrées, or, as they were called
then, "quelques-choses." "A hard bed and an empty kitchen" was a common
experience in different districts; one party arrived at Antibes, on the
Riviera, in 1606, to find one melon constituting all the provisions of
the only inn.
Comparison of the fare in the various countries of Europe shows no
more striking inequalities of supply than is the case with butter: in
Poland so plentiful as to be used for greasing cart-wheels; in France
so scarce and so bad that English ambassadors used to import theirs
from home; in Spain still scarcer, except in cow-breeding Estremadura.
A German, when he wanted to buy butter, was directed to an apothecary,
who produced a little, and that much rancid, preserved in a she-goat's
bladder for use as an ingredient in salves, telling him there was not
such another quantity in all Castile.
It was not merely on account of the sleeping accommodation that those
who had been to Spain thanked God for their return and wondered at it.
The wine, they said, was undrinkable, owing to the flavour imparted
to it by the skins that held it; and as for eatables, all had to be
bought separately by the traveller and cooked by him when he was tired.
A still greater trouble was to find any to buy. One complains that
his stomach roared for want of victuals and had to be answered with
nothing but roast onions; and so on. But here again can be traced the
effects of their buying their experience in the north: what the south
thought of the north may be guessed from the Andalusian hero of a
picaresque tale recollecting how the food of a Catalan acquaintance
of his consisted of hard bread once every three days. The force of
prejudice may be exemplified by a note or two from the journal of a
courtier[96] who followed after Prince Charles when the latter went
incognito to Madrid. His chief complaints as to food are: At the first
stopping-place past Santander, whither notice of their coming had been
sent a fortnight earlier, they had a plank instead of a table, a few
eggs, half a kid burnt black, and no table linen. At a tavern in a
wood, the woman laid a cloth on a stool by way of a table, and placed
two loaves on it while she fried eggs and bacon for them: enter, from
the wood, two black swine who knock the stool over and depart with a
loaf each. And yet, although he has noted having enjoyed a good fat
turkey at one place and very good hens at another, when he lands at
Weymouth he says that there was more meat on the table than he had seen
in two hundred miles riding in Spain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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