Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
and so far from altering our ways, the ancient rule that a gentleman
who has partaken of onions shall absent himself from court for eight
days has fallen into abeyance. For those who prefer meat, there is
plenty. Fowls, I know, are scarce, and you are so used to fowls that
you think "no fowls, no meat"; and yet, I remember when I was a small
boy and Queen Anne arrived at Santander to marry good King Philip
II, she was presented there with two hundred fowls and a calf. As to
sheep, ask the eight Germans who recently ate a whole one between them;
besides, does not the famous Lazarillo de Tormes tell us that it is the
regular thing at Maqueda to eat sheep's heads on Saturdays at three
maravedis apiece? and on fast days we have special permission to eat
cow-heels and sucking pigs. Now, how can these things be if we have no
sheep nor cows nor little pigs? On the contrary, you Germans, who take
so well justified a pride in your bacon at home, how is it you say
nothing about it after a week or so with us? Why, we have an author,
Lope da Vega Carpio, who will soon be recognised as the greatest writer
since Seneca, who always takes a rasher of our bacon before starting to
write, as a stimulant!
But I can quote something better than your own experience—the words
of the King and of St. Michael. Charles V advised the great Alonzo de
Guzman against going to Italy, "Better stay at home and kill rabbits
on your own hills and eat them than be killed by the sea and be eaten
by the fishes": and when the said Alonzo dreamed that he was dead, St.
Michael appeared and sentenced him to return to earth for his misdeeds
and eat roast meat and be content; and Alonzo found himself able to
arrange for roast duck in summertime and an "olla" keeping hot in the
chimney in winter. If I say nothing as to wild boar and partridge,
it is merely because it is getting late. But I will just add this in
confidence, that people, we find, pay more willingly when the bill is
accompanied by a cheerful "Y haga les buen provecho."
The Muscovy delegate, "Cologne Jimmy" of Nerva, had drawn the third
place; but being temporarily bereft of his faculties by the number of
drinks new to him, a discussion was substituted at the instance of M.
Petit, who enjoyed most of the French custom at Rome, on the evil of
free board and lodging which various institutions provided, a most
demoralising custom and very hard on those who wished to gain an honest
living. At Seville and Montserrat, he had heard, things had come to
well-to-do people being given fish as well as bread, and at Amsterdam
foundations were even being instituted on a secular basis. That they
might be in a better position to take action, it was proposed to form
an Innkeepers' Association, but when an Irish waiter from Madrid
suggested as a motto, "Pediculus pro comite jucundo," recriminations
ensued which soon rendered adjournment necessary.
Nevertheless, at the banquet in the evening all passed off happily in
the traditional way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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