Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
It was always the rain that caused the trouble, although the state of
the roads when dry must have been fearful for ordinary wet weather to
effect so rapid a deterioration. From Ferrara to Bologna was reckoned
a half-day's journey in summer, a whole day in winter. And in 1606
an Italian says of the roads near Strassburg that the mud, stones,
and holes compelled the horses to go single file, each one stepping
in the tracks of the leader; near Ypres they found the road often
indistinguishable from the fields, and the mud came up to the horses'
girths.
In dry weather the only complaint is against loose stones on steep
gradients, which latter naturally occur far more frequently on the
old roads than on modern ones, keeping, as the former do, to high
ground for choice. The fact that by this means traffic was less at the
mercy of floods seems to be considered reason enough for the habit,
but perhaps it was also found to give greater protection against
highwaymen, who were thereby afforded fewer opportunities for attacking
from higher ground, and for concealment. One place in particular where
these loose stones formed a serious hindrance was Scaricalasino,
between Bologna and Florence, so named (scarica l'asino means "unload
the ass") because what with the badness of the road and the sharpness
of the stones the asses had to be relieved of their burdens at
intervals. So, too, the secretary of a Venetian embassy writes that
between Terni and Assisi the way was so rough as well as muddy that it
cost the party of forty fourteen hours and the deaths of four horses to
do twenty miles.[103]
Another difficulty, sometimes a peril, to be faced were the fords. On
the main road, for example, from Rome to France, through Florence,
there was the river Paglia to cross, which bounded Papal territory in
that direction. The passage still remained a ford, although after rain
it would be impassable for a week at a time. And where, on the map,
north of Venice, you see the Tagliamento divide into seven branches,
there, through them, lay the road which joined Italy with Germany. Yet
only one branch had a bridge over it, and the fords through the others
were dangerous enough to keep guides at work. It is not surprising,
then, to find Sir Thomas Browne's son having to engage two men to walk
beside his horse up-stream to break the force of the current lest it
should carry the horse off his feet, since the river was the Var, in
the Riviera, and across a less important road.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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