Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Three hundred years later, sign-posts were still as rare as
unicorn-horns. One mile north of Rimini, where the road forked, stood a
chapel between the two turnings, on one side of it written, "La Strada
di Ravenna," on the other, "La Strada di Bologna"; and the roads round
Freiburg were planted with trees to mark the way, for the benefit of
citizens, however, rather than of strangers, because of the mouths of
the silver mines which would otherwise have been man-traps. Something
of the kind, too, was put up in Holland when snow hid the roads. More
to the point will it be to quote John Smith's account of his escape
from Tartary, and how he found pictorial sign-posts at cross-roads,
the way to Christian Muscovy being indicated by the sign of the Cross;
to Crim Tartary by a half-moon; while a black man with white spots
meant Persia; a sun, China; and minor princes' territories were pointed
out by the emblems they had adopted. But these were really out of
Europe and those of Freiburg and Holland outlined the road rather than
indicated directions, as did the poles erected on the Col di Tenda
Alpine-pass for a mile together, each pole a spear's length from the
next. The Simplon and Mt. Cenis passes were thus marked out also—when
the poles had not been blown flat by the wind.
[Illustration: A SIGN-POST]
But then, crossing the Alps alone was practically unknown, although
only on the Mt. Cenis route were professional guides employed as a
matter of course. These guides had their own special name, "marrons"
and a special function, to "ramasser" the traveller on his way
to France, down the slope between the summit of the pass and
Lanslebourg, when it was covered with frozen snow. The traveller took
his seat in a rush-seated chair on runners; one "marron" in front and
one behind. The one in front had a strap round his chest fastened to
the chair; he took a few steps, and the chair did the rest; if the
direction became amiss or the pace too furious, the "marron" behind
the chair guided or checked it with an alpenstock. The distance was a
league; the time fifteen minutes. Going towards Italy you would have
found fifty or sixty persons coming to meet you at Lanslebourg, hat
in hand, offering their services as "marrons" or as horse-owners.
Dismounting, one would have held the bridle, one the stirrup, one
yourself. Two or three struggle for the privilege of taking your horse
to the stable and your trunk to your room, but the latter privilege is
not one to be granted lightly; it was not in sound only that "marron"
resembled "larron." The traveller's own horse was sent on after being
shod with calkins, and he himself followed in one of the sledges, used
in ascents, litter-fashion, by four "marrons," who carried it, two
at a time, turn and turn about; glasses to protect the eyes from the
snow-light formed part of the stock-in-trade of the local pedlars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account