Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Certain circumstances raised the cost to him above the average, and
he was away more than a year and a half, whereas the journey would be
done within the year ordinarily. On the other hand, as his brother died
near Aleppo, the return-journey represents the expenditure of one man
instead of two. How a thrifty man who was used to roughing it would
be forced to spend the equivalent of one thousand pounds or more on a
journey that would nowadays cost him about sixty-five pounds is partly
explained by the exactions of the Turks. When Sandys was at Jerusalem
the monks of S. Salvatore had just been compelled to pay eight hundred
dollars [£900] for an imaginary offence. When Lithgow arrived late one
night after the gates had been shut, the friars let down food to him
over the wall; the Turks, being informed of this, insisted they must
have been importing weapons, and inflicted another fine, one hundred
piasters [£125]. It is not surprising, then, that with expenses like
these, and ordinary expenses to match, the monks expected sums from
the pilgrims that seem at first sight outrageous. To Lithgow they
made a definite charge of a piaster [£1 10s.] a day for board and
lodging alone; but their general custom was to throw themselves on the
traveller's generosity and grumble at the result.
Neither did the Franks suffer from indirect exactions only. The price
for entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre went on increasing,
from nothing at all in the fourteenth century to four zecchini [£10]
in 1606. Some mention fees of four times that amount, but this higher
sum included the toll at the city gate, the two being collected
simultaneously and so mistaken for one charge: the Turks farmed the
revenue from the Holy Sepulchre for eight thousand sultanons [over
£19,000], says Sandys. Extras were almost endless, yet very few of
them left any change out of a gold coin; the fee for the certificate
of visitation, without which the poorest pilgrim would not think of
departing, was three zecchini [seven guineas], while the knighthood,
nominally thirty zecchini, does not seem to have been granted for less
than ten. The monastery servants were liable to excommunication if they
accepted a tip, but they gladly risked damnation for a zecchino, and,
indeed, insisted on doing so.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education — John Shaqi
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