Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Between the soldier and the robber, in fact, the difference was merely
that of official, and unofficial, employment. It was in the latter
capacity, of course, that they oftenest had dealings with the tourist;
or were supposed to do so. One cannot help being struck by the idea
that these travellers were far more frightened than hurt, so far as
robbery was concerned. A lady, for instance, between Turin and Genoa,
saw the road stained with blood where wayfarers had lately been robbed
and murdered, yet passed in safety.[146] One traveller, it is true,
was stopped four times between St. Malo and Havre, but more normal
experiences were those of Moryson, who suffered so but once in more
than four years' travel, and of Hentzner, who encountered robbers once
in three years and then escaped. He had warning and hired an escort;
but it has to be noted that this escort, for one day, cost more than
fifty crowns [£90]. Very similar was the experience of the Venetian
ambassador Lippomano on his way to Paris in 1577.[147] A rumour got
about that he was conveying a loan of eight hundred thousand francs
to the French government, and a Venetian ambassador was easy to get
information about because of the red trappings of his mules. He was
warned, and so were the towns on the route; with the result that his
own company were refused admission on suspicion that they were the
highwaymen in disguise; and watched, as they passed, by garrisons on
the walls. For six days they marched in continual fear; swords drawn,
arquebus-matches lighted. Once they thought the "volori" really were
upon them, but out of the cloud of dust galloped nothing but the escort
from Troyes to relieve the escort from Bar-sur-Seine. And in the end
they were fleeced by none but the escorts themselves.
These escorts were part of the life of the time; important towns kept
them as a matter of course, in default of a system of country-police
such as existed in Spain, the "Santa Hermandad," who first suppressed
the thieves and then took over, and extended, their business. In
France, however, towards the end of this period, the highways began to
be patrolled regularly by police, in couples, none but whom might carry
firearms. Yet this arrangement was in force when of the travellers
who followed just behind Evelyn on the Paris-Orleans road, four were
killed. And within a few years of this some one tells us how he heard
cries issuing from the inside of a dead horse, cut open by robbers in
order to give themselves more time to escape by fastening their victim
inside it, a dirty trick, literally, for he was pulled out in as untidy
a state as it was possible for a stark-naked man to be.
[Illustration: TRAVELLERS ATTACKED BY ROBBERS]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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