Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Among the towns of the Empire Augsburg was easily first; its finest
street was the finest street in Europe, with roofs of copper; Nuremburg
ran it close in many ways but had nothing to show in comparison with
that one street. The cause of Augsburg's preëminence was its being
the home of the Fuggers, the greatest financiers of Europe, but with
their decline one function of the town that meant much in the way
of attracting wayfarers, that of being the General-Post-Office for
correspondence between Italy and Central Europe, passed to Frankfurt.
The frequency of the use of stone as house-building material in these
towns of Upper Germany and the show of burnished pewter and brass
that was the pride of each inhabitant of standing, who let his huge
hall-door lie open all day to exhibit it, were details which the
Average Tourist would not overlook if he was observing as he ought
where the wealth and security prevailed that were valuable in an
ally. Thus did Strassburg fix itself in De Rohan's recollections.
Democracy, to him, was a barely credible superstition; yet nowhere was
he more courteously treated, nowhere did he see completer preparations
against a long siege, nor any better arsenal, a model of cleanliness,
orderliness, and efficiency. Neither was it lost on him that amongst
all their collection of cannon there was not one for siege purposes;
their aim was defence, not offence. As little to be ignored as the
others was Ulm. A feature of the age was the development of the methods
of water-supply in towns; Ulm was the centre for this industry; even
Augsburg's water-supply had been planned there. And it was equally the
leader in woodwork.
Similar characteristics would be found repeated on a somewhat less
striking scale among the Hansa towns, with Lübeck ranking first in
pleasantness by general consent. A specially charming feature lay in
the number of swans swimming in the moats, though no Englishman so much
as mentions them; doubtless because the one town that excelled it in
this respect was London. Going east, the various capitals would provide
each its own object-lesson, and, collectively, would illustrate the
absence of avarice among German rulers as contrasted with the princes
of Italy. Saxony formed the only exception and Dresden showed it. In
spite of it being the last big town that Hentzner visited, its armoury
aroused more enthusiasm in him than anything except the gardens of
Naples and the all-sufficiency of Milan; and Moryson confirms this,
adding also that the stable was the finest he had seen, with its
136 horses, all foreigners (the German horses had another stable to
themselves), each with a glazed window and a green curtain in front
of his nose, a red cloth, an iron rack, a copper manger, a brass
shower-bath, and a separate cupboard for his trappings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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