Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
just taken in Rome counted 40,000, and he had it on good authority;
and in 1617, that the Espousal of the Sea at Venice had been spoilt
as a sight because the courtesans, offended at an edict directed at
them, had abstained from taking part in it. Those at the head of the
profession lived "like princesses," not only so far as expenditure
went, but also in their command of marks of respect in public, except
that every now and then some sumptuary edict would create, and perhaps
enforce, some distinction between those who populated and those who
depopulated Italy. It is pleasanter to turn back to Holland again, to
the homely arrangements of Thursday in Delft fair week, when the women
who had had enough of waiting for husbands sat in the church and the
men who had waited long enough for wives came to look at them. A few
questions, a pot of beer, a few details to be settled; and then the
wedding.
There were plenty of these fairs, Lyons had four a year, so had Rouen;
but the attraction they possessed for the sixteenth-century human being
lay rather in the amount of wholesale and financiers business done than
in homely picturesqueness; sentimentality is the last vice he can be
charged with. Who, for instance, nowadays, would dare to say he saw
nothing charming in a Breton festival? but Brittany was left to itself
in those days, and a travelling doctor who chanced on one leaves it
with the remark that the Breton girls singing their folk-songs reminded
him of "the croaking of frogs when they are in love." Yet St. John's
Eve was a festival that gave plenty of pleasure to lookers-on as well
as those who took part in it; at Paris, in particular, where there was
hardly a citizen named after the saint who did not light a fire at his
door that night. And it is perhaps worth mentioning how they kept that
feast at Naples, according to Audebert, in 1577; how the custom was to
bathe in the sea previous to paying one's devotions at "S. Giovan' a'
Mare," seeing that he adds that the custom was dying out, the younger
people scorning it as a pagan survival.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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