Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Nowhere was this despotism more felt than in relation to travel: every
foreigner was half a prisoner from the day he entered the kingdom to
the day he left, even though he were an ambassador. The very Jesuits
sent by the Pope, in 1581, at the Tsar's own request, to negotiate a
peace between himself and the King of Poland were under surveillance to
such an extent that they were not allowed to water their own horses.
Neither was any subject allowed to leave the land: the penalty for
unlicensed travel being death. It is clear that leave must have been
more freely granted than one might imagine from the general statements
of visitors, since Russian pilgrims and merchants are by no means
uncommon, and indeed, at this period, Peter Mogila, Metropolitan of
Kiev, and Boris Godunov, ruler at Moscow, endeavoured to encourage
travel by Russians as a means of education.
Godunov's efforts, in fact, beginning as they did with his accession
in 1586, synchronised with the growth of the same idea in England. But
his efforts failed through being too far ahead of public opinion; those
whom he sent stayed away permanently, those who stayed at home remained
unconverted.[60] Two instances of public opinion as regards foreigners
may be quoted, both occurring on the direct road to Moscow at the very
end of this period, during the whole of which the number of visitors
goes on increasing. The first is the experience of some Dutchmen
who came by invitation of the Tsar and consequently had a house
commandeered for them. The wife of the owner, seeing no help was to be
had from the local authorities, rushed to St. Nicholas and would, she
believed, have obtained a miraculous expulsion of the visitors had not
her husband tired of the length of her prayer and stopped it by force.
The second is that of a Danish gentleman who, with his companions,
was prevented from entering a village by bees which the peasants had
irritated for that purpose.
So, too, with the Muscovites and travel on their own account. Whereas
other Europeans only thought of dying when they travelled, the
Muscovite only thought of travelling when he died. Then his friends
shod him with a new pair of shoes for the long journey that he had to
go, and put a letter in his hand to St. Nicholas, by way of passport,
testifying that the bearer died a Russian of the Russians in the one
true faith.
The distinctive characteristics of the people as seen by strangers
were drunkenness, endurance of heat, cold, and torture, and slavish
obedience to the Tsar. Drunkenness in particular. As the English
verse-writer, Turberville, who went there, puts it,—
Drink is their whole desire, the pot is all their pride,
The soberest head doth once a day stand needful of a guide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account