Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
The choice of route, then, predetermined by the usual considerations,
applicable only to other countries, failed to do justice to Spain. Yet
it was accompanied by these special assumptions, as regards political
supremacy, at the back of the tourist's mind, no evidence in favour of
which was forthcoming; at least, no evidence of a kind which he came
prepared to recognise as such. On the contrary, he could not avoid
being struck by the insignificance of Spanish buildings, especially,
curiously enough, at Madrid itself, where the houses were mostly of
one story; a result of it being necessary to obtain a license from the
King for anything higher, the conditions imposed by which license,
such as that of housing ambassadors in the second story, would prove
too burdensome. This particular impression was deepened in the latter
half of the period by the linen window-panes, which made the interiors
seem gloomy at a date when the use of glass in windows was spreading in
the countries which the visitor had come from and had passed through.
And so with many other matters, until one Dutchman who had travelled
viâ Italy, after being taken to see a water-mill as something quite
out of the common, makes the general deduction: "What is very common
elsewhere, here often passes for miraculous."
Furthermore, as has been said, there were the historical illusions,
too, which would be shaken. What Montaigne experienced at Venice took
place on a larger scale in the minds of all who visited Spain. The
deeper the previous study, the deeper the disappointment; but the
latter was felt nevertheless by him in whom it was unconscious; and
in both cases the recovery was slower than at Venice where all that
was visible was so near. In fact, it is clear enough that with most a
recovery never happened.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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