Tramping on Life: An Autobiographical NarrativeKemp, Harry
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Tramping on Life: An Autobiographical Narrative
Kemp, Harry
Kemp, Harry, 1883-1960
Then, far and faint, were heard a crew of Chinese sailors, on the
nearest junk, singing a curious, falsetto chantey as they hauled on a
bamboo-braced sail....
"A feller wot never travelled wouldn't bloody well believe they was
such queer people in the world," further observed the philosophic
coal-heaver.
* * * * *
Next morning the coast of China lay right against us, on the starboard
side ... we ran into the thick of a fleet of sampans, boats fashioned
flat like overgrown rowboats, propelled each by a huge sculling oar,
from the stern ... they were fishers who manned them ... two or three to
a boat ... huge, bronze-bodied, fine-muscled, breech-clouted men ... as
they sculled swiftly to give us sea-room each one looked fit to be a
sculptor's model.
Their bodies shone in the sun like bronze. Several, fearing we might run
them down, as we clove straight through their midst, raised their arms
with a shout full of pleading and fright.
"What's the matter? are they trying to murder some of these poor chaps?"
I asked.
"No ... we're just having a little fun ... what's the life of a Chink
matter?"
* * * * *
"I say, if the Chinks up where the Boxers are fighting are big and
strong as them duffers, here's one that don't want no shore-leave!"
commented someone, as we stood ranged by the side.
"I always thought Chinamen was runts."
"Oh, it's only city Chinks--mostly from Canton, that come to civilized
countries to run laundries ... but these are the real Chinamen."
* * * * *
After the cattle had been unladen, the crew were to be taken down to
Shanghai and dumped ashore ... as it was an English Treaty port, that
would be, technically, living up to the ship's articles, which
guaranteed that the cattlemen aboard would be given passage back to
English ground....
But I was all excitement over the prospect of making my way ashore to
where the Allied troops were fighting....
* * * * *
Dawn ... we were anchored in Taku Bay among the warships of the Allied
nations ... grey warships gleaming in the sun like silver ... the sound
of bugles ... flags of all nations ... of as many colours as the coat of
Joseph.
"Well, here we are at last!"
* * * * *
Next day the work of unloading the cattle began ... hoisted again by the
horns from our boat of heavy draught to the hold of a coasting steamer,
that had English captain and mates, and a Chinese crew.
Some of the steers were so weak that they died on deck ... as they were
dying, butchers cut their throats so their beef could be called fresh.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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