We tramped away northward toward the Crow’s Nest, where a great forest fire was raging, and we came to the “cow-town” of Pincer Creek. The Canadian Wild West seemed much wilder than the Wild West south of the line--or rather, the population seemed wilder. One missed the gentleness and playfulness of the United States. The men were harder than down south, and they looked at us with a contempt only modified by the thought that we might be potential harvest hands. The Canadian-English looked more askance at Vachel than they did at me. He looked poetical. They couldn’t have put a name to it, but that is what it was. But whatever it was, I could feel their aversion. They disapproved of tramps, but preferred them to poets. I could see also they didn’t care for Vachel’s accent, but they rejoiced in mine and spoke to me just to get me to reply so that they could hear once more the voice of the Old Country. We were clearly in the Empire and not in the Republic. The Union Jacks in the little log-cabins were wreathed with flowers. The Stars and Stripes had disappeared. We were so struck with the change of feeling in the air that we bought ourselves a school-history of Canada and read it assiduously. The very way of man looking to man was different. Then the first popular song which sounded in our ears was: We never get up until the sergeant Brings our breakfast up to bed. O it’s a lovely war! which is a purely British army song. The Englishman in Alberta is an overman in the midst of a miscellaneous foreign under-population. The Englishman’s word is law. He is stronger, rougher in his language and his ways--not educated. But this sort of fibre is best suited for the outposts of Empire. “We Americans are just a bunch of playful kittens,” said Vachel. There was nothing very playful about the Alberta pioneers. “Did you light that fire on the side of the road a mile back? Well, you dam well go back and put it out.” “We did put it out.” “I tell ye, ye didn’t. I won’t waste my breath talking to you. If you set the prairie afire I’ll have you both in jail by sundown.” “All right, we’ll go back.” [Illustration] _We’re on the same continent. Well, I don’t know. Smells different somehow. Same air; people speak the same language. But I don’t see that bird about, That old eagle of yours. Smells as if a lion had been here. You don’t know the lion’s smell? Well, smell that Union Jack! That’s it._ [Illustration: BURN YOUR RIFLES AND RETURN TO WORK] XXXVI. DUKHOBORS WE had not anticipated coming into the neighbourhood of the Dukhobors. It was an interesting surprise. I had promised myself I would make a special pilgrimage some day to Western Canada just to find out what the Dukhobors thought about life, and how they were getting on now. And then to come on them accidentally.