Among the daintiest and best of the numerous kinds of foreign and
domestic cheeses that may be bought in nearly every American city and
town, are the small round cheeses with red or yellow coats which come
to our markets from Holland. The ancient town of Edam, on the shore of
the Zuyder Zee, has given its name to this product, and almost
everywhere in America we ask for Edam cheese when we want this
particular kind; but while Edam produces Edam cheese, this sleepy
little town long ago ceased to hold a high place in the cheese world,
and neighboring towns now monopolize the trade in this article, which
holds a leading place in the farm products of Holland.
The most extensive and celebrated of the cheese-markets is that of
Alkmaar, which has the commercial advantage of being located on a
railroad as well as on the North Holland Canal. Every visitor to the
Netherlands should arrange to spend at least one day at Alkmaar, easily
reached from Amsterdam or Haarlem.
In Dutch history, Alkmaar is celebrated for its successful defense when
besieged by the Spaniards in 1573, but in modern times it has been
noted for its cheese trade, which is now its principal attraction.
The market is held every Friday; but in order to observe all of its
features, a visitor should go to Alkmaar the day before, and see the
preliminary preparations. The market-place is a large stone-paved space
in the open air, with business houses on three sides, a canal on the
fourth side, and a weigh-house at one end. During Thursday the dairymen
from the surrounding country arrive with their families and their
cheeses, coming in carts, wagons, and canal-boats; and by the afternoon
of that day, there is a great bustle, which continues far into the
evening.
Throughout the night bands of young peasants, both men and women,
parade the streets of Alkmaar, singing and skylarking; and cheese-carts
continue to arrive and clatter along the stony streets, so that little
sleep is possible for the residents and visitors.
An essential part of the cheese-market is the official weigh-house,
which was built more than three centuries ago, out of an already
existing church. Its shapely clock-tower has moving figures of horsemen
in a tourney, and a beautiful set of chimes, one of whose airs is the
well-known wedding march from Wagner's "Lohengrin." In the main room on
the ground floor are four huge balances which, before the opening of
the market, are carefully adjusted with much ceremony by an official in
silk hat and frock-coat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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