Everybody who is young must love Constantinople. It is so full of color
and soft musical sounds that one is sure something unexpected and
wonderful will happen any moment. Nowhere in the world, perhaps, can be
seen so many different types of people as on Galata Bridge. Let us pay
ten paras--a little over one cent--and go on the bridge; we shall see
and hear more than a dollar's worth. There go modern Turkish gentlemen
dressed like our fathers, but wearing fezzes instead of hats. A fez is
made of soft red felt and has no brim; from the top hangs a black silk
tassel. Here come old-fashioned Turkish gentlemen with bent shoulders
and flowing beards. They wear soft padded overcoats of many colors, and
each is sure to have on a ring set with a beautiful stone that he keeps
turned toward the inside of his hand. There are some priests with white
scarfs round their fezzes; here are others with green ones, because
they have been to Mecca, where every pious Turk wants to go before he
dies. There are whirling dervishes in brown overcoats, and tall brown
hats shaped like chicken croquettes. Have you ever heard of dervishes?
They are priests who perform a peculiar ceremony in their religious
houses. They take off their brown overcoats and dance in green or white
costumes that have full pleated skirts. They spin round and round on
their tiptoes, accompanied by strange music, while the chiefs of the
order sit cross-legged on the floor and watch them.
Then there may pass a Tartar pilgrim all in white from the interior of
Asiatic Turkey, or a Persian in gray with a Persian-lamb fez, or a
fierce Kurd. The last is a soldier, and wears a brown hood with a long
end knotted round his head. Since the Balkan War, when many Kurds were
in Constantinople on their way to the army, the little Turkish girls
have worn the same sort of hood of soft colors and fabrics. On the
bridge, too, may be seen the shrouded Turkish ladies, who move silently
along like black ghosts. They wear the _tcharchaf_--the modern Turkish
dress which includes a veil over the face; old-fashioned women of the
poorer class still wear the soft white yachmak that covers the head but
not the face. And then, too, there are the _hamals_--wild peasants from
the interior--who do the fetching and carrying. They wear little caps
and bright sashes, and have on their backs a kind of saddle on which
they put anything from a bag of flour to a piano. They walk faster than
the rest and sing "_Dustur_, _dustur_," which means "Get out of the
road." If we are very lucky, we shall see a string of camels with their
noses in the air, and on their humps lovely faded blue and red
saddle-bags. They are usually led by a donkey, and with them is a
camel-driver of most fetching appearance. The camels are so big and
shaggy and out of place that we pinch ourselves to see if we are really
awake.
[Illustration: View of Constantinople from the Galata side]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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