A little sister showed us her drawing-book, in which she had begun at
the back and worked toward the front. The Turkish children recite their
lessons all together in the old-fashioned schools, and if you could
hear them, you would think that you had gone into _Wonderland_ with
_Alice_ where "things wouldn't come straight." The little girls go to
school in groups, and with them is always an old servant who carries
all their books on what looks for all the world like a small
clothes-tree. The boys go and come in two long lines, attended by their
teacher. They carry their own books and wear long trousers and fezzes
exactly like those of their fathers. Some of the tiny girls carry their
own little tables and drawing-boards. In the gipsy village in Scutari
the children learn their lessons by songs in the street. They stand in
a circle with a big girl in the middle, and they grow noisier and
noisier the more interested they become. These little girls wear
_shelvars_, which look like little trousers gathered in at the ankle. I
tried to take a picture of a little girl in an orange-colored pair and
of a boy in a wrapper and fez, but they were frightened and ran away
crying.
Now I must tell you about the Turkish shops--the really Turkish ones.
Most of them are about the size of a spider's parlor and have no front
wall, so you see the wares can be temptingly displayed to the
passer-by. You see in one of our pictures a shop where all kinds of
blankets and scarfs are sold. The scarfs are especially useful: if you
are a man, you can wind one around your fez or your waist; if you are a
lady, you can wear it indoors as a shawl, sash, or scarf; or, if it is
the right kind, a little girl can wear it to school on her head. You
don't know which one to choose when they are tossed down in front of
you--a riotous mingling of reds, browns, oranges, golds, and yellows.
Another fascinating shop is a bead-shop. Most of them are together on
the bead street. There you may see displayed all kinds of strings of
beads--long and short, large and small beads, red, yellow, and blue, of
amber, meerschaum, and olive-wood. The Turkish gentlemen carry the
short strings, and, when they chat, they play with the beads,
unconsciously, but always in the same way. They move them forward with
the thumb and first finger, two at a time, one from each side of the
string. When all have been moved, they turn the string about and move
the beads in the opposite direction.
Then there is the rug-shop. The Turkish rug-merchant offers you tea or
coffee and cigarettes, as he hopes you will spend much money. And while
you drink, he throws down before you rugs, rugs, rugs, soft, rich,
alluring, from Baluchistan, Kurdistan, Persia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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