We at first steered a course near the shore, but finding that there was a heavy ground swell, we kept about four miles out from the land, a distance sufficiently close to enable us to have a good view of the Californian hills. One night, large beacon fires were reported to be observed on the heights of the southern extremity of Lower California. The course was consequently altered towards a small bay within Cape San Lucas, and a boat came alongside conveying passengers. It was very dark and the signal fires threw a fitful glare upon the sea and our ship, at intervals. As we followed the line of the coast, the scenery became very grand as we approached the mountain ranges of Mexico. The weather was fine, the sea, rightly called Pacific, was as smooth as glass, and there was an effect of atmosphere which gave a marvellously beautiful colouring to the slopes and valleys of the mountains. Several days after our departure from San Francisco we entered the little land-locked harbour of Manzanillo. When rounding the point we disturbed several flocks of pelicans. They gathered speed with a few flaps of their great wings and then swept over the water noiselessly without further effort, altering the direction of their flight until they were sheltered from observation by some intervening rocks.[54] Manzanillo is one of the seaports of the city of Mexico, and communicates with the capital by a road leading to Colima and Guadelajara. Near the village there is a shallow lake called La Laguna de Cuyutlan, in which exist an extraordinary number of alligators. After our ship had anchored, some of the passengers went to look at this quiet reptile-infested lagoon, which is separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land. Captain Lapidge told us that a few years before our arrival, there had been a long continuance of westerly winds, and these together with an unusually high tide caused the sea to flow over the isthmus into the lagoon. Numerous alligators then came out from it and crossed over into the bay where they were immediately attacked by sharks, which abound on this part of the coast. He said that a fearful combat took place and for several days the bay was deluged with blood. It had become dark before we returned from the lagoon, and we passed through the Indian village situated near its banks. The women were busy grinding, on rounded granite slabs, grains of maize; or cooking various herbs and vegetables in small earthern pans. The interior of their huts contained one room. The ground was usually bare, but in some instances a few mats were laid down. The exterior was formed of long upright poles or sticks closely bound together. The roofs, which were high and sloped steeply downwards, were made of brushwood and palm leaves.