Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and UxmalBrine, Lindesay
History
Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and Uxmal
Brine, Lindesay
Guatemala -- Antiquities; Indians -- Antiquities; Mexico -- Antiquities; North America -- Description and travel
It was reported that, in some remote districts, sacrifices were still
offered, but this is very doubtful. The Padre observed that the
Indians at Panajachel, and in the villages bordering on the lake were
excessively superstitious. In their houses or huts they usually had
a room or space set apart for the abode of their saint’s image. This
image would sometimes be carried to the parish church and be left
there for a time, and then would be taken back to the house again with
ceremonies and lighted candles. I mentioned to the Padre how I had
noticed that the Indian women here had a habit of talking together in a
low tone. He said this was chiefly owing to the dialect of the Quiché
language which was spoken in this district, in which many of the sounds
were expressed like a whisper.
At daybreak Augustin was at the door with the mules, and my kind
hostess prepared for me a cup of chocolate which she said would
fortify me for the journey. We then left for Sololá, and soon were
watching a glorious sunrise. The lake of Atitlan is irregular in its
shape. According to my travelling map it has a circumference exceeding
thirty miles. The most remarkable features are its great depth, and
the almost perpendicular cliffs on the northern side which seem to be
of volcanic formation. The deep blue of its waters is possibly owing
to their depth, and the rarefied state of the atmosphere at this
altitude. Our road led us through several villages containing chiefly
Indian populations, and then we ascended a long and abrupt hill. As
the day advanced we were joined by bands of Indians with cargo mules,
travelling to the market.
Sololá is the chief town of the Department, and the Corregidor was good
enough to add some recommendations to my government letter. We stopped
there long enough to rest the mules, and then proceeded on our way to
San Tomas, eight leagues distant. Upon reaching the upper slopes of
the hill I dismounted, in order to visit some Indian farm buildings
that occupied several acres of rising ground near our path. Although
there were evidences of what may be called comparative wealth, these
Indians—like all others that I had seen—only possessed a single hut
with one large room in it. Men, women and lads were all busy; the boys
cleaning and spinning wool for their black ponchos or cloaks, and the
women, as usual, engaged in grinding maize and making tortillas.
We followed a steep ascent. The path was cut into broad steps, up which
my excellent mule clambered with the utmost ease and rapidity, and in
a manner which brought back to the memory many rides amongst the Druse
villages in the mountains of the Lebanon. Upon reaching the summit of
the sierra, I turned the mule’s head round to enable me to look at the
lake and the group of volcanoes beyond it. It was then a scene of great
beauty, but at some remote period in the world’s history, it must have
been a centre of great volcanic violence and devastation.
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