Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and UxmalBrine, Lindesay
History
Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and Uxmal
Brine, Lindesay
Guatemala -- Antiquities; Indians -- Antiquities; Mexico -- Antiquities; North America -- Description and travel
As Lopez did not know the country beyond Ocosingo, it was settled that
he should return to Comitan. I was sorry to part with him. He had
carried the luggage and provisions, and although a part of the journey
must have been extremely fatiguing to him he never complained. He
also showed the utmost zeal in obtaining forage for the mule, and was
willing and attentive. Don Remigio hired for me a guide named Bito, who
spoke Spanish and knew the paths as far as Chilon, about eleven leagues
distant. Bito brought with him a horse, and thus we were able to travel
at a fair speed. After riding through several leagues of pine forests
we reached Bachajon in the afternoon.
Bachajon was a strictly Indian village, for the natives objected to any
white people or Ladinos settling amongst them. In the Plaza we found
numbers of Indians congregated together. They differed greatly from
those that I had hitherto seen both in appearance and dialect. The
men wore a white cloth folded round the head, and white frocks and
trousers. The women wore a white frock cut open and square over the
shoulders, and below this a blue skirt reaching nearly to the feet.
Their thick black hair was tied back with a strip of bright red cotton.
Many of the younger women were handsome, but their figures were spoilt
and bent by the custom of carrying large water jars on the hip. The men
were of a larger stature than the natives on the Pacific side of the
Cordilleras, and their skin was of a dark copper colour. Their faces
were broad, but the cheek bones were not so high as is usual with the
North American Indians. Their hair was long, black and very thick, and
their eyes were dark, large, round and restless. With all of them the
nostrils were very wide.
The church was in ruins, the roof had entirely disappeared, and only
the porch and outer walls remained standing. I remained for several
hours in the Plaza, and my attention was directed to a remarkable
observance. The Indians, when returning from their fields upon the
completion of their day’s work, invariably, before going to their
huts, went to the front of the ruined porch. There they knelt down
and prayed for some minutes. I was deeply interested in observing the
practice of this custom. There was something that appealed strongly to
the imagination in witnessing the simple and earnest devotion of these
wild, ignorant and uncivilised people. It was impossible to conjecture
what was present in their minds, as one by one they, in their solitary
manner, knelt devoutly before these ruined walls. Possibly they
worshipped in their memory the images that, many years before, had
been enshrined within.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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