Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and UxmalBrine, Lindesay
History
Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and Uxmal
Brine, Lindesay
Guatemala -- Antiquities; Indians -- Antiquities; Mexico -- Antiquities; North America -- Description and travel
My travelling companions then left me and I remained a solitary
stranger amongst a crowd of busy Indians. I was told that there was no
hotel, but that possibly I might get a room in an old disused convent
which was being altered for the purpose of receiving guests. I rode
up to the gate and there saw a Spaniard who informed me that he had
lately bought a portion of the ruins, and was re-arranging the interior
sufficiently to enable him to keep an inn. He had a room at my disposal
and assured me that he would be pleased if I would occupy it. This room
had been a nun’s cell, the door of which opened into the quadrangle.
I found that I was quartered within the Convent of the Conceptionistas,
which after the suppression of the monastic orders had been abandoned.
Thus, by a strange series of events, I had come from the ruined Indian
“nunnery” at Uxmal to the ruined Spanish nunnery at Merida. The cells
and the quadrangle of the Conceptionistas reminded me of the interior
of the “Casa de las Monjas.”
During my brief sojourn in Merida I was generally occupied during the
day in observing the habits of the Indians who came into the town from
the adjacent country. In the evenings, within the convent walls where,
for many years, the nuns had led their quiet and secluded lives, I
listened to the plans of my worthy and eager landlord for converting a
building, constructed for the purposes of solitude and prayer, into a
busy and prosperous inn. I frequently thought of the past of this land.
The monastic institutions of an unknown race of Indians had flourished
and had been destroyed, and were succeeded by the churches and convents
established by an enthusiastic race of devoted missionaries who came
across the Atlantic to spread their faith in the New World. Many
changes had happened, the old order of things had passed away. The
work of the Spanish priests for the education and conversion of the
Indians, maintained for centuries with such zeal and self-sacrifice,
was destined to become useless, and in their turn the monasteries of
the Spaniards are doomed to fall into the same condition of ruin as the
temples and religious structures of the Indians.
One evening the landlord (Miguel Yturran) told me that a brig had
arrived and was at anchor off the port of Sisal, and was going to sail
for Cuba on the afternoon of the next day. I accordingly arranged to
leave on the following morning. A good level road led to the northern
coast, the distance was about thirty-eight miles. We changed mules at a
village called Junucuma, and reached Sisal before nine in the morning.
We had left Merida at daybreak and travelled at an average speed
exceeding twelve miles an hour. In the offing we saw the brig with her
sails loosed, preparing for sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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