Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Continuing our march, we soon came to the Shʿabet eʾ talha, the bottom of
which is clothed with the brushwood called arfísh, and with the rétem,
or broom. Further on, when we came upon the higher rocky ground, the
country grew more sterile, though we were so fortunate as to catch two
gazelles. Black masses of sandstone jutted out on all sides, and gave
a wild air to the desolate region through which we were passing. The
sterile character of the scene underwent no change till next morning,
when, on advancing about a mile and a half, we came to the Wady Siddre,
which was enlivened by a few talha-trees. A narrow defile led us from
this place to the Wady Boghár, whence we entered another defile. Mid-day
was past, when we obtained a distinct view of the date-grove in Wady
Sháti, and the high sand-hills which border the valley on the south.
Towards the north it was rather open, and we hastened on to escape from
the hot desert through which we were marching; but a good while elapsed
before we reached the border of the valley, which on this side abounded
in herbage. After a mile and a half we reached the first wild palm-trees,
thriving in separate and casually formed groups. Then followed a belt of
bare black ground, covered with a whitish crust of salt. The town, on
the top of a broad terraced rock, seemed as far off as ever. But I urged
on my Bu-Séfi along the winding path over the hard ground; Richardson
and Overweg followed close behind, while the camel-drivers had fallen
back to exchange their dirty costume for one more decent. At length we
reached the north-western foot of the picturesque hill, and chose our
camping-ground beyond the shallow bed of a torrent between the date-trees
and the corn-fields, near the largest fountain,—a very agreeable
resting-place, after the dreary desert which we had traversed.
We had felt tired so long as the place was yet ahead of us; but we had no
sooner reached it than all fatigue was gone, and Overweg and I, under the
guidance of a mʿallem, went forth to view the interesting features of the
locality. It is certainly a very rare spectacle in this quarter of the
world, to see a town on the top of a steep terraced hill in the midst of
a valley, and occupying an advantageous position which might be supposed
to have given the place great importance from very ancient times. Éderi
seems to have been a considerable place till fourteen years ago, when
the independent spirit of its inhabitants was broken by the despotism of
ʿAbd el Jelíl ben Séf eʾ Nasr, the famous chief of the Welád Slimán. The
old town on the top of the hill having been destroyed, and there being no
longer a necessity for a fortified residence, under the civilized though
exhausting government of the Turks, the new village was built at the
northern foot of the hill, on which side lies the chapel of the Merábet
Bu-Derbála, and another of less fame, a little east of the former, called
Sidi ʿAbd eʾ Salám.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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