Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
With a general impulse of energy, we started this morning at a very early
hour,—twenty minutes past two o’clock in the morning—in order to get out
of the sands, and to arrive in “the Wady.” After seven hours’ constant
march, we at length got a fine view of the steep cliffs which enclose the
Wady on the south side, and which contrasted marvellously with the white
sand-hills in the foreground; for, stretching out in a horizontal dark
line which faded away at each end, they exhibited an illusive picture
of a lake spread out before us in the remote distance. The cool east
wind, which had blown in the morning, and promised a fine day, changed,
as is very common in these regions, towards noon into a hot south wind,
and made us very uncomfortable and susceptible of the fatigue of a long
march, particularly as the distance proved much greater than we had
expected. Indeed it was not till nearly two o’clock in the afternoon,
that Mr. Richardson and I, who were much in advance of the caravan,
reached the border of the Wady, and shortly afterwards the well Moghrás,
at the foot of two tall palm-trees, where we found a woman with two
neatly dressed children. They belonged to the Azkár-Tuarek, who, leaving
their miserable abodes, migrate to these more fertile districts, where
they build themselves light cottages of palm-branches, and indulge in a
patriarchal life, breeding camels and rearing sheep. Near almost every
village in the Wady, outside the palm-grove, in the bare naked bottom of
the valley, these poor people form a sort of suburb of frail huts; but
nevertheless they keep up family ties with their brethren near Ghát, and
respect in some degree the authority of the chief Nakhnúkhen. That this
state of things might become very unfavourable to Fezzán in an outbreak
of hostilities between the Turks and the Tuarek, is obvious; I shall
have occasion to say more on this subject further on. A belt of saline
incrustation, of more than half a mile in breadth, runs through the
middle of the valley, forming a line of demarcation between the separate
palm-groups and the continuous grove.
On reaching this grove we soon caught sight of the famous village Ugréfe,
the residence of our camel-drivers, which was to them the grand point
of attraction, and in truth the only cause of our taking this westerly
route. It consisted of about thirty light and low dwellings made of clay
and palm-branches, and lay near an open space where we were desired to
encamp: but longing for shade, we went a little further on, and encamped
near two splendid ethel-trees (_Tamarix orientalis_), the largest I ever
saw before I reached Égeri. When the camels came up and the tents were
pitched, the encampment proved most agreeable.
[Illustration]
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