Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Then came the longer train of the Kél-owí, mostly on mehára, or swift
camels, with Sultan Astáfidet at their head; and last of all followed
the people of the town, a few on horseback, but most of them on foot,
and armed with swords and spears, and several with bows and arrows. The
people were all dressed in their greatest finery, and it would have
formed a good subject for an artist. It recalled the martial processions
of the Middle Ages, the more so as the high caps of the Tuarek,
surrounded by a profusion of tassels on every side, together with the
black “tesílgemist,” or lithám, which covers the whole face, leaving
nothing but the eyes visible, and the shawls wound over this and round
the cap, combine to imitate the shape of the helmet, while the black and
coloured tobes (over which on such occasions the principal people wear a
red bernús thrown across their shoulders) represent very well the heavier
dress of the knights of yore. I will only add that the fact of the Sultan
wearing on so important and solemn an occasion a robe which had been
presented to him by a stranger and a Christian had a powerful influence
on the tribes collected here, and spread a beneficial report far westward
over the desert.
Shortly after the procession was over, the friendly Haj ʿAbdúwa, who,
after he had parted from us in Eghellál, had attached himself to the
troop of Astáfidet, came to pay me a visit. He was now tolerably free
from fever, but begged for some Epsom salts, besides a little gunpowder.
He informed me that there was much sickness in the town, that from two
to three people died daily, and that even Astáfidet was suffering from
the prevalent disease. This was the small-pox, a very fatal disease in
Central Africa, against which, however, several of the native Pagan
tribes secure themselves by inoculation, a precaution from which
Mohammedans are withheld by religious prejudice. I then received a visit
from the sons of Bóro, in their official character as “fádawa-n-serki.”
They wished to inform themselves, apparently, with reference to my
adventure the other night, whether the townspeople behaved well towards
me; and I was prudent enough to tell them that I had nothing to complain
of, my alarm having been the consequence of my own imprudence. In fact
the people behaved remarkably well, considering that I was the first
Christian that ever visited the town; and the little explosions of
fanaticism into which the women and children sometimes broke out, when
they saw me on our terrace, rather amused me. During the first days
of my residence in Ágades they most probably took me for a Pagan or a
Polytheist, and cried after me the confessional words of Islam, laying
all the stress upon the word Allah, “the One God;” but after a few days,
when they had learnt that I likewise worshipped the Deity, they began to
emphasize the name of their Prophet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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