Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
The other ruin, related to this one as well by name as by the style
of its workmanship—but in many respects more interesting, having been
evidently once a place of Christian worship—stands on a narrow and
detached neck of rock in the Shʿabet Um el Kharáb, and, from its whole
plan, appears to have been originally and principally a church about
forty-three feet square, sufficiently large for a small congregation,
and with more art and comfort than one can easily suppose a Christian
community in these quarters ever to have possessed. Hence greater
interest attaches to this building than it would otherwise deserve. It
closes with a plain apsis, in which there are two openings or doorways
leading into an open room stretching behind it and the side-naves, and is
divided into three naves, the middle one of which is eight paces, and the
lateral ones six and a half wide. The naves are divided from one another
by columns with differently ornamented capitals supporting arches, all in
the so-called round style of architecture. I made purposely a sketch of
two different capitals, in order to show their designs; and I think they
are very characteristic. But it is curious to observe that the walls also
appear to have been originally painted on stucco, though at present but a
small piece of it remains near the corner; hence I conclude that the date
of the painting was later than that of the erection of the church.
The front of the building has suffered in some degree from the
depredations of the Arabs, who are said to have carried away a great
many sculptures from this place—as much, indeed, a man from Mizda would
have made me believe, as fifty-five camel-loads. However exaggerated
this statement may be, it is evident that the whole layer over the
entrance was originally covered with ornamental slabs, while now only
two remain to the left of the doorway; and these, though in the same
style of sculpture as the capitals, would rather seem to have been
taken from another edifice. There are many debatable points involved
in the consideration of this building. The first fact clearly shown is
the existence of a Christian community or a monastery in these remote
valleys, as late as the twelfth century at least, under the protection
of a powerful chief; and this is not at all improbable, as we know that
Mohammed expressly ordered that zealous priests and monks should be
spared, and as we find so many monasteries in several other Mohammedan
countries. That it was not merely a church, but a monastery, seems
plainly indicated by the division into apartments or cells, which is
still clearly to be seen in the upper story. Attached to the north side
of the church was a wing containing several simple apartments, as the
ground-plan shows; and on the south corner of the narrow ridge is a small
separate tower with two compartments. Near this ruin there is another,
which I did not visit, called Ksaer Labayed mtʿa Derayer, while a third,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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