Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
We were roused from our refreshing sleep as early as two o’clock after
midnight; but this was a mere sham of our camel-drivers, who feigned
making up for the loss of yesterday, and after all we did not get off
early. Our road carried us from wady to wady, which were generally
separated from each other by a defile, occasionally presenting some
difficulty of passage. We left a castle of Roman workmanship, as it
seemed, in the distance to the left, and further on to the right a slight
stone wall called Hakl el Urínsa, dating from the petty wars between the
Arab tribes. We had already passed a few small ethel-bushes; but now we
came to a most venerable-looking old tree called Athelet Si Mohammed
fi Useát, spreading out its weather-beaten branches to a considerable
distance: under this I sat down quietly for a while, waiting for our
people, who were still behind. The caravan at length came up; and
continuing our march, we soon passed on our right hand the chapel of a
great Merábet of the Welád Bu-Séf, called Si Rashedán. The Welád Bu-Séf
in general enjoy great authority with the other tribes for their sanctity
of life and purity of manners; they allow no stranger to come near their
villages, but pitch a tent for him at a distance, and treat him well.
The Welád Bu-Séf are remarkable for the excellent breed of their camels,
which they treat almost as members of their families. It is curious that
this tribe, intent upon right and justice, has waged war incessantly
from ancient times with the Urfílla, the most warlike and violent of the
tribes of these regions. It is difficult to make out whether they are
related to the Welád Bu-Séf of the western part of the desert, who are
likewise distinguished by their peculiar manners, but who it seems would
scruple, on religious grounds, to call a man ʿAbd eʾ nebi (Slave of the
Prophet), which is the name of the ancestor of the Eastern Bu-Séf.
Emerging from a defile, upon high ground, early in the afternoon,
we obtained a view over Wady Zémzem, one of the most celebrated
valleys of this part of North Africa. It runs in general from west to
east-north-east, and is furnished with a great many wells, the most
famous of which are el Abiadh, Sméla, Nákhala, Urídden, Halk el Wady,
and, a little further down, Téder. In half an hour we encamped in the
valley, full of herbage and with a goodly variety of trees. A caravan
coming from the natron-lakes, and carrying their produce to Tripoli, was
here encamped. I could not withstand the temptation of ascending, in the
afternoon, a projecting eminence on the south side of the valley, which
was broken and rent into a great variety of precipices and ravines; but
its summit, being on a level with the plateau, did not afford me such a
distant view as I had expected. The cliff was formed of strata of marl
and gypsum, and contained many fossil shells.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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