Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Near this is another sepulchre, occupying a more commanding situation,
and therefore probably of older date, but it is almost entirely
destroyed; and a third one in an equally ruinous state, but of larger
proportions than either, is seen further south-east. These monuments
serve to show that the dominion of the Romans in these regions was
not of momentary duration, but continued for a length of time, as the
different styles of the remains clearly proves. It may be presumed that
no common soldier could pretend to the honour of such a tomb; and it
is probable that these sepulchres were destined to contain the earthly
remains of some of the consecutive governors or officers stationed at the
neighbouring place, which I shall soon describe.
Like a solitary beacon of civilization, the monument rises over this
sea-like level of desolation, which, stretching out to an immense
distance south and west, appears not to have appalled the conquerors of
the ancient world, who even here have left behind them, in “lithographed
proof,” a reminiscence of a more elevated order of life than exists at
present in these regions. The flat valley below, with its green strip of
herbage, stretches far into the stony level; and beyond, north-eastwards,
the desolate waste extends towards Gharíya.
I returned to the encampment, which meanwhile had sprung up on the open
space round the well, and was anxious to quench my thirst with a draught
of the precious liquid; but the water was rather salt, and disagreed with
me so long as I continued to use it,—that is, for the next seven days.
That we might make good use of our leisure hours, all three of us went
the next day to Gharíya, or rather Gharíya el gharbíya—_i.e._, western,
to distinguish it from the more distant eastern place of the same name.
Cheerfully as we set forward, we were heartily glad when, after a three
hours’ march, we saw the northern tower of the place become visible over
the monotonous stony plain, the wide and unbounded expanse of which
seemed to indicate something above a single day’s excursion. After having
also descried the half-ruined dwellings of the village, we were eagerly
looking out for the palm-grove, when we suddenly reached the brink of a
deep ravine, in which, on our left, the fresh green plantation started
forth, while all around was naked and bare. We crossed the ravine,
leaving the grove on our left, and ascended the opposite cliffs towards
the ruined cluster of miserable cottages, when, having traversed the
desolate streets, we encamped outside the Roman gate, the massive and
regular architecture of which formed a remarkable contrast to the frail
and half-ruined structures of the village. We were greatly astonished to
find such a work here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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