Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
But, notwithstanding all the importance attached to the dreary character
of this region, I found it far less naked and bare than I had imagined
it to be. To the right of our path lay a small green hollow, of cheerful
appearance, a branch of which is said, probably with some degree of
exaggeration, to extend as far as Ghadámes; but the whole extent of the
Hammáda is occasionally enlivened with small green patches of herbage,
to the great relief of the camel. And this, too, is the reason why the
traveller does not advance at a rate nearly so expeditious as he would
expect. In the latter part of our preceding journey we generally had
made almost as much as two and a half miles an hour; but we scarcely got
over two on this level open ground. Of course, the wider the space the
wider the dispersion of the straggling camels; and much time is lost by
unsteady direction. At the verdant hollow called Garra mtʿa eʾ Nejm the
eastern path, which is called Trík el mugítha (_via auxiliaris_), and
passes by the village of Gharíya, joined our path.
At Wady Mʿamúra I first observed the little green bird generally called
asfír, but sometimes mesísa, which lives entirely upon the caravans as
they pass along, by picking off the vermin from the feet of the camels.
In the afternoon we observed, to our great delight, in the green patch
called el Wueshkeh, a cluster of stunted palm-trees. Hereabouts the
camel-drivers killed a considerable number of the venomous lizard called
bu-keshásh; and the Tarki in particular was resolute in not allowing
any which he saw to escape alive. After a moderate march of little more
than ten hours and a half, we encamped in a small hollow called, from a
peculiar kind of green bush growing in it, el Jederíya. A strong cold
wind, accompanied by rain, began to blow soon after we encamped. The
tent, not being sufficiently secured, was blown down in the night; and we
had some trouble in pitching it again.
Continuing our march, we passed, about ten o’clock in the morning, a
poor solitary talha-tree bearing the appellation of el Duhéda. Further
on we found truffles, which in the evening afforded us a delicious
truffle-soup. Truffles are very common in many parts of the desert; and
the greatest of Mohammedan travellers (Ebn Batúta) did not forget them
in relating his journey from Sejelmása to Waláta, in the middle of the
fourteenth century. The sky was very dark and hazy; and the moon had an
extraordinary “dára,” or halo. We slept this night without a tent, and
felt the cold very sensibly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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