Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
With a general impulse of energy, we started this morning at a very
early hour, twenty minutes past two o’clock in the morning, in order to
get out of the sands, and to arrive in “the Wadi.” After seven hours’
constant march, we at length got a fine view of the steep cliffs which
enclose the Wadi on the south side, and which contrasted marvellously
with the white sand-hills in the foreground; for, stretching out in a
horizontal dark line which faded away at each end, they exhibited an
illusive picture of a lake spread out before us in the remote distance.
The cool east wind, which had blown in the morning, and promised a fine
day, changed, as is very common in these regions, towards noon into a
hot south wind, and made us very uncomfortable and susceptible of the
fatigue of a long march, particularly as the distance proved much
greater than we had expected. Indeed it was not till nearly two o’clock
in the afternoon, that Mr. Richardson and I, who were much in advance of
the caravan, reached the border of the Wadi, and shortly afterwards the
well Moghrás, at the foot of two tall palm-trees, where we found a woman
with two neatly dressed children. They belonged to the Azkár-Tawárek,
who, leaving their miserable abodes, migrate to these more fertile
districts, where they build themselves light cottages of palm-branches,
and indulge in a patriarchal life, breeding camels and rearing sheep.
Near almost every village in the Wadi, outside the palm-grove, in the
bare naked bottom of the valley, these poor people form a sort of suburb
of frail huts; but nevertheless they keep up family ties with their
brethren near Ghát, and respect in some degree the authority of the
chief Nakhnúkhen. That this state of things might become very
unfavourable to Fezzán in an outbreak of hostilities between the Turks
and the Tawárek, is obvious; I shall have occasion to say more on this
subject further on. A belt of saline incrustation, of more than half a
mile in breadth, runs through the middle of the valley, forming a line
of demarcation between the separate palm-groups and the continuous
grove.
On reaching this grove we soon caught sight of the famous village
Ugréfe, the residence of our camel-drivers, which was to them the grand
point of attraction, and in truth the only cause of our taking this
westerly route. It consisted of about thirty light and low dwellings
made of clay and palm-branches, and lay near an open space where we were
desired to encamp; but longing for shade, we went a little further on,
and encamped near two splendid ethel-trees (_Tamarix orientalis_), the
largest I ever saw before I reached Égeri. When the camels came up and
the tents were pitched, the encampment proved most agreeable.
[Illustration]
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