Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
We entered another grove, which stretches far northward into the valley,
its produce being, according to our camel-drivers, entirely reserved for
the poor. Having passed Tawásh, with its little grove, we entered the
fine plantation of Brék, enlivened by the bleating of sheep and goats.
Here, in the small fields where corn is cultivated, the ground is
thickly incrusted with salt and soda. We at length encamped near the
grove of Tewíwa, close to the village of the same name, and to the north
side of the Merábet Sidi e’ Salám.
The next morning, while the camels were loading, I visited the interior
of the village. The walls have given way in several places, and the
whole made the impression of a half-deserted place; but the little
kasbah, which is never wanting in any of these towns, was in tolerable
condition. One of the inhabitants, on being asked why the village was so
much decayed, told me that a torrent had destroyed a great portion of it
nine years ago, in consequence of which the greater part of its
population had dispersed abroad, only about twenty families now
remaining. But this is the condition of nearly all the places in Fezzán;
and it can be partially accounted for only by supposing that many of the
male inhabitants go off to Negroland, to avoid being made soldiers. A
very extensive grove belongs to Tewíwa; but the plain between the
village and the rocks is rather open, only a few patches of corn-field
being scattered thereabouts. Three vast and detached buttresses, which
jut out from the cliffs into the plain, give a very picturesque
appearance to the groves and villages which we passed on our route.
We were just proceeding in the best manner, when a halt was ordered,
from very insufficient reasons, a little south from the village
Tekertíba, where we were to pass the heat. Meanwhile I ascended a ridge
of rocks which, a little further down, crossed the valley from the
southern border. The ridge was a narrow, steep, wall-like cliff, which
afforded a very interesting view of the end, or rather beginning, of the
fertile Wadi, which was close at hand.
From the highest point of the ridge I descended northwards, crossing a
small defile, which is formed between the two rocky buttresses to the
north and south, the latter being the more considerable. Along it runs a
path, connecting the two valleys. Here I obtained a view of the fresh
green valley on the one side, and the destructive sand-hills on the
other, and directed my steps to the plantation, where young people were
busily engaged in drawing water from the large pond-like wells. The
beams, by means of which the water is drawn up, require to be strongly
constructed, the whole of the khattár having a height of from sixty to
eighty feet. These draw-wells are always placed in pairs; and a couple
of miserable asses, partners in suffering, do all the work. The young
male labourers all wore straw-hats, and had an energetic appearance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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