Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
On the E.N.E. side of the village rose a hill about 100 feet high, and
affording a fine view over the valley-plain. From its highest summit,
where a niche for prayers has been laid out with stones on the ground,
it stretches from east to west, and forms a kind of separation in the
flat valley, limiting the ethel-tree to its western part, all the sand-
hills in the eastern prolongation being covered with palm-bushes, which,
from a distance, have the appearance of a thick grove. Descending from
this hill northwards, I came to the handsomely-decorated sepulchre of
Háj Sálemi, the brother of the sheikh, who resides in Múrzuk, and
further on met a party of Tinýlkum _en route_ for the wadi, where
numbers of them are residing. Another division dwells about Sebhha; but
the whole body of the tribe comprises from 350 to 400 families, which
are united by the closest bonds, and act as one body—“like meal” (to use
their own expression) “falling through the numerous holes of a sieve
into one pot.” About noon arrived the pilgrim-caravan of the Tawáti,
which had been long encamped near Múrzuk, on their way home; it had been
this year only 114 persons strong, with 70 muskets, while sometimes it
musters as many as 500 persons. Their chief, or sheikh el rákeb, was an
intelligent person of the name of ʿAbd el Káder, a native of Timímun,
who had been leader of the caravan several times. They encamped at no
great distance from us on the open ground.
Being obliged to buy another camel for myself (in order to be able to
mount our servant Mohammed el Túnsi on a camel of our own, the Tinýlkum
being very particular about their beasts, and not liking to see a man
often mounting them), I bought, in the afternoon, a fine tall méheri
from Háj Mohammed, for 69 Fezzán riyals or 55 Spanish dollars.
[Sidenote: June 17th.]
I made a longer excursion along the eastern part of the wadi, which
here, where it is lower and collects more humidity, is adorned with some
beautiful wild groups of palm-trees left quite to themselves; the valley
extends towards Wadi Ghodwa, which it joins. Keeping on in that
direction, I came to a poor hamlet called Márhhaba inhabited by a few
families, who bitterly complained of their poverty. Here was formerly a
village built of clay, and a large spacious castle about sixty-five
paces square. All is now deserted; and only a small part of the
available ground is under culture, forming about six or seven small
fields. The same picture is met with all over Fezzán, where the only
places exhibiting to the eye some degree of life and prosperity are
Sokna and Murzuk. The population of this wide expanse of country falls
short of even sixty thousand souls.
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