Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
We continued our march with the sure expectation of soon reaching
Ghát[62], the second great station on our journey. The valley after some
time became free from ethel-trees, and opened a view of the little town,
situated at the north-western foot of a rocky eminence jutting out into
the valley, and girt by sand-hills on the west. Its plantation extends
in a long strip towards S.S.W., while another group, formed by the
plantation and by the noble-looking mansion of Háj Ahmed, appears
towards the west. Here we were joined by Mohammed Sheríf, a nephew of
Háj Ahmed, in a showy dress, and well mounted on a horse; and we
separated from Hatíta in order to take our way round the north side of
the hill, so as to avoid exciting the curiosity and importunity of the
townspeople. But a good many boys came out of the town, and exhibited
quite an interesting scene as they recognized Yakúb (Mr. Richardson),
who had visited this place on his former journey. Many people came out
to see us, some offering us their welcome, others remaining indifferent
spectators.
Thus we reached the new plantation of Háj Ahmed the governor, as he is
called, of Ghát, and found, at the entrance of the out-building, which
had been destined for our use, the principal men of the town, who
received us with great kindness and politeness. The most interesting
among them was Háj Ahmed himself, a man of grave and dignified manners,
who, although a stranger to the place, and a native of Tawát, has
succeeded, through his address and his mercantile prosperity, in
obtaining for himself here an almost princely position, and has founded
in reality a new town, with large and splendid improvements, by the side
of the old city. His situation as governor of Ghát, in reference, and in
some degree in opposition, to the Tawárek chiefs, is a very peculiar
one, and requires, on his part, a good deal of address, patience, and
forbearance. I am convinced that when we first arrived he did not view
us with displeasure, but, on the contrary, was greatly pleased to
receive under his roof a mission of Her Britannic Majesty’s Government,
with whose immense influence and power, and the noble purpose of whose
policy, he was not entirely unacquainted; but his extraordinary and
precarious situation did not allow him to act freely, and besides I
cannot say that he received from us so warm an acknowledgment as his
conduct in the first instance seemed to deserve.
Besides him, the chief parties in our first conversation were his nephew
Ahmed Mohammed Sheríf (the man who came to meet us), a clever but
forward lad, of pleasant manners—whom in the course of my travels I met
several times in Sudán,—and Mohammed Káfa, a cheerful good-humoured man.
[Illustration]
Our quarters, of which the accompanying woodcut gives the ground-plan,
were certainly neither airy nor agreeable; but the hot sand-wind which
blew without made them appear to us quite tolerable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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