Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
First, leaving the fáda to our right, we went out through the “kófa-n-
Alkáli;” for here the walls, which have been swept away entirely on the
east side of the town, have still preserved some degree of elevation,
though in many places one may easily climb over them. On issuing from
the gate I was struck with the desolate character of the country on this
side of the town, though it was enlivened by women and slaves going to
fetch water from the principal well (which is distant about half a mile
from the gate), all the water inside the town being of bad quality for
drinking. At some distance from the gate were the ruins of an extensive
suburb called Ben Gottára, half covered with sand, and presenting a very
sorry spectacle. It was my design to go round the southern part of the
town; but my companion either was, or pretended to be, too much afraid
of the Kél-geres, whose encampment lay at no great distance from the
walls. So we re-entered it, and followed the northern border of its
deserted southern quarter, where only a few houses are still inhabited.
Here I found three considerable pools of stagnant water, which had
collected in deep hollows from whence, probably, the materials for
building had been taken, though their form was a tolerably-regular oval.
They have each a separate name, the westernmost being called from the
Masráta, who have given their name to the whole western quarter as well
as to a small gate still in existence; the next southwards from the
kófa-n-Alkáli is called (in Emgedesíye) “Masráta-hogú-me,” for the three
languages—the Temáshight or Tarkíye, the Góber or Háusa language, and
the Songhay- or Sonrhay-kini—are very curiously mixed together in the
topography of this town, the natural consequence of the mixture of these
three different national elements. This mixture of languages was well
calculated to make the office of interpreter in this place very
important, and the class of such men a very numerous one.
In the Masráta pool, which is the largest of the three, two horses were
swimming, while women were busy washing clothes. The water has a strong
taste of salt, which is also the case with two of the three wells still
in use within the town. Keeping from the easternmost pool (which is
called, like the whole quarter around, Terjemáne, from the interpreters
whose dwellings were chiefly hereabout) a little more to the south-east,
I was greatly pleased at finding among the ruins in the south-eastern
quarter, between the quarters Akáfan árina and Imurdán, some very well-
built and neatly-polished houses, the walls of which were of so
excellent workmanship, that even after having been deprived of their
roofs, for many years perhaps, they had sustained scarcely any injury.
One of them was furnished with ornamented niches, and by the remains of
pipes, and the whole arrangement, bore evident traces of warm baths.
Music and song diverted us in the evening, while we rested on our mats
in the different corners of our courtyard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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