Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Starting rather late, we continued through the mountainous region,
generally ascending, while a cold wind made our old friend the chief
shiver and regard with feelings of envy my thick black bernús, although
he had got bernúses enough from us not only to protect him against cold,
but us too against any envious feeling for the little which was left us.
Further on, in several places the granite (which at the bottom of the
valley alternates with sandstone) was perfectly disintegrated, and had
become like meal. Here the passage narrowed for about an hour, when we
obtained a view of a long range stretching out before us with a
considerable cone lying in front of it. Keeping now over rocky ground,
then along the bottom of a valley called Tánegat, about half a mile
broad, where we passed a well on our right, we at length reached a
mountain-spur starting off from the ridge on our right, and entered a
beautiful broad plain stretching out to the foot of a considerable
mountain-group, which was capped by a remarkable picturesquely-indented
cone called Mári. Here we saw the numerous camels of the salt-caravan
grazing in the distance to our left; and after having crossed a small
rocky flat, we encamped in the very channel of the torrent, being
certain that at this season no such danger as overwhelmed us in the
valley Éghazar was to be feared. Ámagay, who was still with us, paid me
a visit in the afternoon, and had a cup of coffee; he also came the next
morning. Near our encampment were some fine acacia-trees of the species
called gáwo, which I shall have to mention repeatedly in my travels.
[Sidenote: Saturday, December 14th.]
We started early, but encamped, after a short march of about six miles,
on uneven ground intersected by numbers of small ridges. The reason of
the halt was, that the whole of the caravan was to come up and to join
together; and our old chief here put on his official dress (a yellow
bernús of good quality), to show his dignity as leader of such a host of
people.
Salt forms the only article conveyed by this caravan. The form of the
largest cake is very remarkable; but it must be borne in mind that the
salt in Bílma is in a fluid state, and is formed into this shape by
pouring it into a wooden mould. This pedestal or loaf of salt (kántu) is
equal to five of the smaller cakes, which are called áserím; and each
áserím equals four of the smallest cakes, which are called “fótu.” The
bags, made of the leaves of the dúm-palm (or the “kábba”), in which
these loaves are packed up, are called “tákrufa.” But the finest salt is
generally in loose grains; and this is the only palatable salt, while
the ordinary salt of Bílma is very bitter to the European palate, and
spoils everything: but the former is more than three times the value of
the latter. The price paid in Bílma is but two zékkas for three kántus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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