Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Winding along narrow ravines, after about one mile’s march we passed, on
an eminence to our right, another specimen of large pilasters with an
impost, and ruins of buildings of large square stones close by. After
much winding, we cleared the narrow channel ascending the hills, which
were covered with halfa; but here too there was not a single tree to be
seen, and my guide said that there were no olive-trees in the Tarhóna
except in Máta, a place situated between Mount Bu-tauwíl and Kasr
Jefára, from which the tribe Máta derives its name. I have noticed
before, as remarkable, the three olive-trees near Bu-tauwíl. It was
about one o’clock in the afternoon when we came in sight of the Roman
monument called Kasr Dóga; and its brown colour almost induced us to
conclude that it was of brick; but on approaching nearer, we found that
it was built of hewn stone. We were astonished at the grand dimensions
of the monument, as it appeared evident that it was originally a mere
sepulchre, though in after times blocked up by the Arabs, and converted
into a castle.
[Illustration]
The front of the monument faces the south with ten degrees of deviation
towards the west. The whole body of the building, rising upon a base of
three steps, measures 47 ft. 6 in. in length, and 31 ft. 4 in. in
breadth. The entrance or portal, equidistant from both corners, was 12
ft. 6 in. wide; but it has been entirely blocked up with hewn stone, so
that it is now impossible to get into the interior of the monument
without great labour, and only a glimpse can be obtained of a kind of
entrance-hall of small dimensions. Of the interior arrangement,
therefore, nothing meets the view; but on the top of the solid mass of
building, rising to a height of 28 ft. 10 in., the ground-plan of the
third story, which has been demolished to obtain materials for closing
the entrance, is distinctly visible. Here the vestibule measures 10 ft.
10 in., the wall of the interior chamber or cell being adorned with two
columns, which are no less than 3 ft. 10 in. apart: the inner room
itself measures 22 ft. 4 in. in length within the walls. The monument,
although more massive than beautiful, is a fair proof of the wealth of
this district in ancient times. Opposite to it, on a limestone hill of
considerable elevation, is another specimen of the cromlech kind in good
preservation, besides other ruins. In the hollow at the S.E. side of the
sepulchre there are six deep and spacious wells sunk in the rock.
Here my companion left me, and I continued my route alone, passing
through a well-cultivated tract, till I reached an encampment of the
Welád Bu-Séllem, where we pitched our tent. Here I met a cousin of Haj
ʿAbd el Hádi el Meráyet, who had once been master of half the Tarhóna
district, but was made prisoner by the Turks, and sent to
Constantinople. This man also reappeared on the stage last year.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, February 20th.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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