Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
We set out early in the morning, the country continuing flat as far as
the chapel of Sidi ʿAli ben Salah, which, standing on a hill, is a
conspicuous object for many miles round. At a short distance from this
chapel, I observed the ruins of a castle built of large square stones
taken from older buildings; it measures 42 feet in every direction, and
exhibits a few bad but curious sculptures, among others an ass in
relief. Around are the ruins of a small village, and flat stones of
immense size, similar in workmanship to those described above, but no
upright pillars.
Beyond the chapel of the saint the country became more hilly, and after
some time we entered a ravine joining the Wadi Gedaera, which exhibited
the remains of three broad and firmly-constructed dikes, crossing the
ravine at the distance of about 800 yards from each other. They were
built of small stones, and were evidently intended to exclude the water
from the lower part of the valley. Another eight hundred yards below the
innermost dike, the ravine widens out into a fine verdant hollow,
stretching from west to east, and provided with several wells. On a
detached hill rising in the midst of this basin, is situated the Kasr
Dawán, built partly of older materials of hewn stone, partly of small
stones, and probably of the same age as the dikes. The whole floor of
the basin is strewn with ruins; and a considerable village seems to have
extended round the castle: where the ground was free from stones, it was
covered with ranunculuses. Altogether, this spot was interesting—the
stronghold of a chieftain who appears to have had energy and foresight,
but whose deeds are left without a record.
As soon as we emerged from this ravine the whole character of the
country changed, and through a pleasant valley we entered a wider plain,
bordered in the distance by a high range of mountains, among which the
Jebel Msíd, crowned with a zawíya or convent, is distinguished by its
height and its form. It is rather remarkable, and of the highest
interest as regards the ancient history of the civilization of these
regions, that the two most conspicuous mountains bordering Tarhóna, one
on the west the other on the east side, should bear the same name, and a
name which bears evident testimony to their having been places of
worship in ancient times. Both of them have grandeur of form; but the
western one is more regularly dome-shaped.
[Illustration]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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