Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
I rose at an early hour, in order to continue my route, and entered a
very pleasant country, rendered more agreeable in appearance by the
fineness of the morning. Winding along through hilly slopes covered with
luxuriant corn-fields and wide-spreading olive-trees, we reached at
half-past eight o’clock an interesting group of ruins consisting of
immense blocks, and amongst them one like the flat quadrangular stones
represented above, but having on its surface, besides the little
channel, a large hole; also a block of extraordinary dimensions,
representing a double altar of the curious massive sort described above.
Close to these remarkable ruins, in a fine corn-field, is a small
castle, situated upon a natural base of rock, in which subterranean
vaults have been excavated in a very regular way. Towards the south, at
the distance of about half an hour’s march, the large castle of Amámre
rises into view. We then reached the fine plantation of Rumíyeh, while
on a hill to the left lie other scattered ruins.
We met a good many people going to the Thursday market at Kúsabát.
Further on, near another little grove, we found a small encampment of
the Jehawát, a tribe which claims the possession of this whole district.
We then passed a castle irregularly built of large square stones about
twelve yards square. Having crossed a hollow, we obtained a good view
over the country, in which the “Merkeb Sʿaid n ʿAli (the most advanced
spur of this chain towards the coast) formed a distinguished point,
while we had already reached the last low breaks of the mountain-country
towards the east. Meanwhile the greater dimensions of the ruins remind
the traveller that he is approaching the famous remains of Leptis. I
found here, a little to the right of our path, near a Bedwin encampment,
the ruins of a temple of large proportions, called Sanem ben Hamedán,
and of rather curious arrangement, the front, which faces the north and
recedes several feet from the side-walls, being formed by double ranges
of enormous stones standing upright—they can scarcely be called
pilasters,—while the inner part is ornamented with columns of the Ionic
order. The whole building is about 40 paces long, and 36 broad; but the
architectural merit of its details is not sufficient to repay the
trouble of exact measurements. About a thousand yards further on, to the
east, are the ruins of another still larger monument, measuring about 77
paces in every direction, and called by the Arabs Kasr Kérker. It has
several compartments in the interior—three chambers lying opposite to
the entrance, and two other larger ones on the east side. Nearly in the
middle of the whole building, there is a large square stone like those
mentioned above, but having on one of its narrow sides a curious
sculpture in relief.
[Illustration]
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