Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
As for the tower, or nadhúr, it was evidently erected in former times in
order to give timely notice when a band of freebooters—“el jaesh” (the
army), as they are called here—was hovering around the solitary village;
for this seems to have been the chief cause of its destruction, the
Urfílla being said to have been always watching and lying in ambush
round this lonely place, to attack and rob small parties coming from or
going to it; they are said even to have once captured the whole place.
The consequence is, that it has now scarcely thirty male inhabitants
able to bear arms, and is avoided by the caravans as pestilent, the
water, they say, being very unwholesome. The small remnant of the
inhabitants have a very pale and ghastly appearance, but I think this is
owing rather to the bad quality of their food than to that of the water.
In former times it is said to have been celebrated on account of a
merábet of the name of Sidi Mʿadi.
As soon as I had sufficiently examined the ruins and the village, I
hastened to the bottom of the ravine. The contrast between the ruined
hovels of the village, perched on the naked rock, and the green, fresh
plantation, fed by a copious supply of water, is very great. Thick,
luxuriant, and shady clusters are here formed, principally around the
basin filled by the spring, which rushes forth from beneath a rock, and
gives life to the little oasis; its temperature I found, at half-past
one o’clock P.M., 70½° Fahr., while that of the air was 70°. The number
of the date-trees, though small, is nevertheless larger than in Mizda,
and may be nearer to 350 than to 300. The water of the ravine after a
heavy fall of rain joins the Wadi Zemzem, the principal valley of this
whole district, which together with Wadi Sófejín and Wadi Beḯ, carries
all the streams collected hereabouts to the sea.
Such is the character of Gharíya el gharbíya, uniting, even in its
present state of decay, great historical interest with that attaching to
a conspicuous and remarkable feature in the country. Whether her eastern
sister, Gharíya e’ sherkíya, awakens an equal or a still greater
interest, it is difficult to say; but it seems to have quite the same
elements of attraction as the western place, namely, a date-grove and
Roman ruins. I had a great desire to visit it; but that was not
possible, as we were to start next day from Taboníye.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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