Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Continuing our march, we soon came to the Shʿabet e’ talha, the bottom
of which is clothed with the brushwood called arfísh, and with the
rétem, or broom. Further on, when we came upon the higher rocky ground,
the country grew more sterile, though we were so fortunate as to catch
two gazelles. Black masses of sandstone jutted out on all sides, and
gave a wild air to the desolate region through which we were passing.
The sterile character of the scene underwent no change till next
morning, when, on advancing about a mile and a half, we came to the Wadi
Siddre, which was enlivened by a few talha-trees. A narrow defile led us
from this place to the Wadi Boghár, whence we entered another defile.
Mid-day was past, when we obtained a distinct view of the date-grove in
Wadi Sháti[53], and the high sand-hills which border the valley on the
south. Towards the north it was rather open, and we hastened on to
escape from the hot desert through which we were marching; but a good
while elapsed before we reached the border of the valley, which on this
side abounded in herbage. After a mile and a half we reached the first
wild palm-trees, thriving in separate and casually-formed groups. Then
followed a belt of bare black ground, covered with a whitish crust of
salt. The town, on the top of a broad terraced rock, seemed as far off
as ever. But I urged on my Bu-Séfi along the winding path over the hard
ground; Richardson and Overweg followed close behind, while the camel-
drivers had fallen back to exchange their dirty costume for one more
decent. At length we reached the north-western foot of the picturesque
hill, and chose our camping-ground beyond the shallow bed of a torrent
between the date-trees and the corn-fields, near the largest fountain,—a
very agreeable resting-place, after the dreary desert which we had
traversed.
We had felt tired so long as the place was yet ahead of us; but we had
no sooner reached it than all fatigue was gone, and Overweg and I, under
the guidance of a mʿallem, went forth to view the interesting features
of the locality. It is certainly a very rare spectacle in this quarter
of the world, to see a town on the top of a steep terraced hill in the
midst of a valley, and occupying an advantageous position which might be
supposed to have given the place great importance from very ancient
times. Éderi seems to have been a considerable place till fourteen years
ago, when the independent spirit of its inhabitants was broken by the
despotism of ʿAbd el Jelíl ben Séf e’ Nasr, the famous chief of the
Welád Slimán. The old town on the top of the hill having been destroyed,
and there being no longer a necessity for a fortified residence, under
the civilized though exhausting government of the Turks, the new village
was built at the northern foot of the hill, on which side lies the
chapel of the Merábet Bu-Derbála, and another of less fame, a little
east of the former, called Sidi ʿAbd e’ Salám.
[Illustration]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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