Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
About half an hour after starting in the afternoon, we reached a
considerable watercourse, which, bordered by fine spreading trees, had a
very pleasant appearance. It is called Komádugu Ímbulú, or Mbulú. This
watercourse was asserted by my companion Kágo to be entirely distinct
from the Yálowe, or komádugu of Díkowa; and from the experience I had on
my return-journey I think he was correct. The banks of the watercourse
were twelve feet high; its breadth was from twenty to twenty-five yards;
but the depth of the water was only a foot and a half. No current was
then perceptible. The trees of the forest, after we left this
watercourse, were of a greater variety, but all of rather stunted
growth. We observed here great quantities of the grass called kréb or
kashá, which I have before mentioned, and which constitutes a
considerable part of the food of the poorer inhabitants. We passed
several towns in a state of the utmost decay and entirely deserted; and
traversing a dense underwood, which we scarcely expected to see in the
neighbourhood of a large town, reached at five o’clock the clay walls of
Ngála.
The interior of this town has a very peculiar character, and nothing
similar to it is seen in any part of Negroland, although the place at
present is in a great state of decay; for all the ancient quarter of the
town consists of clay houses, built on an imposing and elevated terrace.
The palace of the governor is indeed something quite stupendous for
these regions, having, with its immense substructure, and its large and
towering walls, the appearance of a large citadel. We were quartered in
the extensive mansion of the gedádo or delátu, in which Mr. Tully died;
but it, as well as the whole of the town, was in the utmost state of
decay. The times of Méram, the beloved wife of the sheikh Mohammed el
Amín el Kánemy, had gone by; and the wealth of Ngála had been consumed
by the slaves of the present sheikh and his vizier. The once magnificent
palace of Méram itself is nothing but a large, desolate heap of ruins.
The quarters, however, which were assigned to me were in a tolerable
state of repair, consisting, as they did, of an upper story, which
afforded me sufficient protection against the numbers of mosquitoes
which infest the place. We remained here the following day, when I went
to pay a visit to the governor at his residence; but I felt rather sorry
for it, as the good impression which the imposing exterior of the palace
had made upon me, was destroyed by the ruinous and desolate state of the
interior. The whole province is now in a very neglected condition, such
as would indicate that the ruler of the country himself acknowledged his
incapability of defending his subjects against another inroad of the
Wádáy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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