Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
The quarters assigned to me were situated in the upper story of the
palace of the Ibálaghwán, which surprised me not a little by the
superior and even grand style of its architecture. This very spacious
palace consists of a number of wings inclosing small quadrangular
courtyards, and having an upper story of extensive apartments. The only
part which did not correspond with the magnificence of the rest of the
building, was the staircase, which was rather dark and inconvenient. My
own apartment was not less than thirty-five feet long, by fifteen wide,
and as many high, and received sufficient light from two semicircular
windows, which, of course, had no glass, but could be closed by means of
a shutter of reed. The ceiling was gable-shaped—rather a remarkable
phenomenon in these countries; it was filled out with thatchwork.
But not only were my quarters excellent, but the treatment I received
also was hospitable in the extreme; for I had scarcely taken possession
of my lodgings when a bowl of very excellent pudding made its
appearance. The thievish propensities of the people of Logón are very
remarkable; and the first intimation which I received of it was an
official caution given to me to beware of the slaves of my house.
Having recruited my strength a little, I went with Kashélla Mʿadi to pay
my compliments to the Ibálaghwán or Keghámma. We found him in the
apartment marked _a_ in the ground-plan. At first he was invisible,
sitting behind his matting curtain, “parpar” or “farfar,” which the
Háusa people, in humorous mood, call by the name of “munáfekí” (the
sinner), and which is made of a fine species of reed-grass; but he soon
allowed me to approach him. He was a tall, elderly man, of a cheerful
disposition, and smiling countenance, with nothing in his behaviour to
intimate that he was not a free-born man; and certainly his position was
an eminent one, as he was the second person in this little kingdom, and
held an office corresponding to that of a prime minister or vizier. His
name is Herdége. Having made him a small present for himself, which was
rather insignificant, but which, as it consisted of a quantity of
articles, seemed to satisfy him, I showed him the present I intended to
make to his master. Poor as I was at the time, and destitute of means, I
had determined to give away my Turkish trowsers, of very fine brown
cloth, which I had scarcely ever worn, in order to pave my way in
advance; for besides this article I had only some small trifles to give,
such as shawls, knives, scissors, frankincense, and a few spices. The
keghámma having approved of my present, I immediately went with Mʿadi
Belál to pay my respects to the sultan, or rather Míyará himself.
The palace of the sultan is a very extensive building surrounded by a
wall fourteen feet in height, and corresponding to the height of the
house of the keghámma.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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