Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Ascending then the slope of the eminence on which the town is built, and
which rises to about one hundred feet, and leaving a spacious “máriná”
or dyeing-place on the slope of the hill on our left, we entered the
walls of Sókoto by the kófa-n-rími; and although the interior did not at
present exhibit that crowded appearance which made such a pleasing
impression upon Clapperton, the part nearest the wall being rather
thinly inhabited, and the people being evidently reduced to a state of
great poverty and misery, it made a cheerful impression on me, on
account of the number of dúm palms and kórna trees by which it is
adorned.
Orders having been sent beforehand, I was quartered without delay in the
house of the ghaladíma—a clay dwelling in tolerable repair, but full of
white ants, so that I was glad to find there a “gadó” or couch of reeds,
where I was able to rest myself and put away my small effects, without
being continually exposed to the insidious attacks of these voracious
insects. Having thus made myself comfortable, my first visit the
following morning was to Módibo ʿAlí, who had already testified his
friendship for me by sending me a fat sheep to Wurno. Differing entirely
from the present generation of beggars, whose ignoble habits make a long
stay in Wurno or Sókoto intolerable, he is a cheerful old man of noble
demeanour, and with pure Fúlbe features, with which his middle height
and rather spare growth exactly corresponded. He was simply but neatly
dressed in a white shirt and a shawl of the same colour. Módibo ʿAlí is
the oldest member of the family of the Reformer still alive, being the
son of ʿAlí an elder brother of ʿOthmán the Jehádi, and about seventy-
five years of age. He was seated in the antechamber of his house, before
the door of which his little herd of milch cows were assembled; and he
received me with unaffected kindness. I immediately saluted him as an
old friend and acquaintance, and we had a very pleasant and cheerful
conversation, after which I delivered to him my present, consisting of a
heláli bernús, a piece of white muslin, a high red cap or “mátri,” a
small flask of “ʿottár” of roses, two razors, a pound of cloves, a loaf
of sugar, and a looking-glass; and he was particularly delighted with
some of these articles, which, on account of the insecurity of the road
at the present time, are imported more rarely even from Kanó. In former
times a great many Arabs used to visit this place, partly for purposes
of trade, partly in order to obtain a present from the sultan; but the
danger of the communication in the present reduced state of the empire
is so great, that not a single Arab merchant visits the town. This
circumstance cannot fail to render the conquering tribe more favourably
disposed towards opening an intercourse with the English, or Europeans
in general, by way of the Niger. At present almost the whole traffic in
foreign merchandise is in the hands of the people of Ghát and Ágades,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account